It’s a crisp Tuesday morning, and I’m walking around Dublin. The sun cuts through the Irish chill in the air, so I’m wearing my favorite light jacket as the light peeks through the leaves, warming my face. I take a deep breath and meander through Merrion Square Park.
There’s a statue of Oscar Wilde in the corner of the park, smirking mischievously. It’s strange, imagining him walking through the grounds with a pen and paper, writing what would become The Picture of Dorian Gray. I fantasize about meeting a young Oscar here. I imagine him as a gossip, eager to spill the tea about Ireland’s upper echelon. He confides in me about a story he’s working on, a haunting tale about a painting and lost souls. I look up at his childhood home, just a stone’s throw away, and can almost picture him sitting in the window. Oscar Wilde, imprisoned for “gross indecency” for his homosexuality. Dead at 46. Would he have imagined his work being read by a closeted teenager in a classroom across the globe? Strange.
The River Liffey divides Dublin.courtesy Taylor Henderson
The rich and complicated history of Ireland is thick in the air. The country declared independence from Britain just over 100 years ago, and the reverberations of its oppression are impossible to escape. Natives are almost always ready and willing to share some generational tragedy (with a smile), prepared to rehash their ancestors’ mental and physical sufferings at a moment’s notice, whether fable or reality, then undercut it with something uproarious. The people here are always good for a laugh, like jokes are a currency. Resilience and laughter are intimately connected here.
I walk down to Dame Street. It’s 10 a.m., and there’s a used condom on the ground outside of The George, Ireland’s oldest gay bar. The eyes of a massive mural of Chappell Roan follow me as I meander down the alley, imagining the antics that took place the night before. “Old Earth Remembers Everything,” a paper sign on the bar doors reads. “Hug Your Friends.” The crosswalks are painted rainbow.
Dublin’s 'Rainbow Mile' boasts many LGBTQ-friendly businesses.courtesy Taylor Henderson
The bell tolls at Trinity College, a rare occasion to witness, my guide tells me. It’s graduation day. There’s a long line to see the Book of Kells, which I learn is the famous illustrated manuscript of the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John in Latin. The uncultured swine that I am, I’m much more fascinated by the campus grounds that I recognize from Normal People, the critically acclaimed TV show starring two actors who have become LGBTQ+ cinema heavyweights. Paul Mescal (All Of Us Strangers, The History of Sound) and Daisy Edgar-Jones (On Swift Horses) stood right here!
It’s insane that all of this is located so close to the National Gallery, the Royal Hibernian Academy, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art. Dublin is an art and history lover’s dream. The Merrion Hotel, the quirky five-star luxury resort just down the street from Wilde’s statue, is home to the city’s largest private art collection. Over 100 museum-quality paintings by Irish and and other European artists rest on its walls. The hotel hosts an Art Afternoon Tea, where the Merrion pairs some sweet treats and savory bites with champagne and tasty tea flavors, all served on fine china and inspired by the works of J.B. Yeats, William Scott, Louis Le Brocquy, and more. I’ve never felt more posh double-fisting champagne and an Irish scone.
Author Taylor Henderson by the Oscar Wilde statue in Merrion Square Parkcourtesy Taylor Henderson
For anyone looking to connect to their ancestry, the Epic Museum is a must. The Irish are very proud of their history, and this collection of heroes reveals the impact Ireland has had across the globe. Did you know Barack Obama is Irish? Ireland is well aware, as the museum has an entire wall dedicated to him. Ireland’s affection for the 44th U.S. president doesn’t stop there: Almost two hours southwest of Dublin, in County Tipperary, is the Obama Plaza, complete with a bronze statue of Barack and Michelle waving.
And of course, the pub culture. The George, PantiBar, and Street 66 are the best-known to LGBTQ+ travelers, but there’s so much to explore around the city. The Oval Bar is a great stop for a Guinness or two. Gravediggers, a divey pub located outside of the city’s more touristy areas, is certainly worth your time as well. Owned by the friendly Kavanagh family and positioned next to a literal cemetery, this eclectic pub has been operating for 193 years, and the attached restaurant has a delicious take on traditional Irish food.
Liberty Hall, former HQ of the Irish Citizen Army, next to Custom House in Dublincourtesy Taylor Henderson
More must-see stops if you have the time: Hodges Figgis bookstore, Windmill Studios, the rainbow door outside the Outhouse LGBTQ+ Centre, the Icon Walk, the Gay Spar convenience store, The Abbey Theatre, Dublin Castle. And if you want to learn about queer icons who have shaped Irish culture like David Norris, Joni Crone, Elizabeth O’Farrell, Sir Roger Casement, and Panti Bliss, take a walking tour with Deirdre Keogh of Vagabond Tours.
This press trip was funded by Tourism Ireland.
This article is part of OUT’s Jan-Feb 2026 issue, which hits newsstands January 27. Support queer media and subscribe — or download the issue through Apple News+, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader.
