When the average LGBTQ+ American thinks of vacationing in Mexico, places like Puerto Vallarta, Tulum, or the remote Zipolite are usually the first to come to mind. However, please consider moving Mexico City to the top of your list, not just in Mexico, but in the world of travel opportunities. Mexico City is one of the most populous cities in the world and certainly in the Western Hemisphere, with 22 million people and a gay scene to match its large population. At nearly four times the size of New York City, there is something for everyone and every taste. The affordability and vibrancy of the city, from Michelin restaurants to culture and history to some of the best drag performers and packed gay saunas late on weekends, virtually anyone of diverse backgrounds can fill their days and nights in Mexico City.
As I do with most new cities I visit, I went to Mexico City for 11 days, as I felt this would allow me to explore while retaining some of my daily routine. I found a great Airbnb hotel-like suite in the Juárez barrio, which is central to the Zona Rosa gay district, as well as the Centro, Roma Norte, and Polanco neighborhoods, home to most of the LGBTQ+ hot spots and diverse arts and cultural centers. I booked the place a bit late, so I ended up paying about $110 a night for a beautiful, new, and well-appointed studio suite with a full kitchen and washer (clothes dryers seem forbidden in Latin America, but I’m not complaining). However, with more planning, one can find an equally luxurious and safe accommodation for $75 to $100 a night — a bargain compared to any gay U.S. destination.
Exploring this affordable city
While it’s rare for any article aimed at a diverse traveler to start with food, I must give Mexico City credit for being a culinary standout. From the most delicious taco stands that pop up as semi-permanent establishments on nearly every street corner, to the rise of Michelin-rated restaurants, many of which are very affordable, Mexico City has something for every palate and budget. Any American who thinks they know Mexican food through the lens of their home country is in for a treat with every bite of delectable, authentic Mexican food made in the traditions of the original people.
I visited Mexico City in November, just after the Day of the Dead celebrations, when many orange flowers and painted ceramic skulls were in virtually every public park and attraction. The weather this time of year was heading into their dry season, with cool nights in the 50s and warm sunny days in the mid-seventies. Layers of clothes to remove as the day warms up, shoes made for walking, and sunscreen with a good hat are the way to go. Despite an elevation of nearly 7,500 feet above sea level, Mexico City is very walkable, with neighborhoods blending into one another, and the hills, if any, are very gentle.
My first order of business upon arrival was to have ChatGPT develop a daily itinerary, which included many walks through the wonderful, diverse neighborhoods. My favorite of all, packed with unique coffee shops, restaurants, and many same sex couples openly holding hands as they walked, was Roma Norte. This was adjacent to the barrio where I was staying and seemed to draw me in almost every day to experience something new. It is also home to some of the best gay night spots, restaurants, and several gay saunas popular with handsome men.
Gay nightlife
On my first Saturday night in Mexico City, I booked the unique Gay Hopping Tour Mexico City, led by the handsome, gay-about-town Chapu. Chapu is clearly among the “it gays” of Mexico City queer nightlife, which enhanced this tour in many unexpected ways. No Google search, dating app, or AI can match Chapu’s up-to-the-minute understanding of the hottest gay hotspots, theme nights, and performing talent, from locally known drag queens to the hottest DJs. The tour included three vibrant and popular gay spots curated by Chapu. With our well-known host, we moved in easily, feeling like VIPs bypassing lines and other obstacles common at a popular nightspot on a Saturday. In fact, Chapu knew everyone at every club, greeting doormen and managers with hugs as he introduced us, ensuring the best experience. At each stop, we were given a dedicated bartender or server and access to even the most private and exclusive areas. Chapu was attentive to every need and even offered to be the best “wing man” for those of us seeking someone special. I knew that if I returned to the places we visited on my own, I would be treated as well as when we were on the tour. As importantly to any international traveler, I felt safe.
Culinary delights
While I am not much of a foodie, Mexico City is a foodie city! Boasting some of the best Michelin-rated restaurants in the world, I had to book Pujol, which was one of the most fantastic restaurant experiences of my life. For about $250 (US), you can enjoy a meal by famed American chef, Rick Bayless, who created Pujol with a 7-course tasting menu based on traditional Mexican cooking that includes at least three taco dishes in the comfort of a restaurant of modern wood design and a pianist playing beautiful music. It was a magical two-plus hours, and my lunch companion also enjoyed the drink pairing, which took his meal to about $400. You don’t have to spend at this level to enjoy a Michelin experience in Mexico City. The Michelin list in Mexico City included one of the first taco stands, Taqueria El Califa de Leon, but be prepared to wait 30 minutes or more in line. It’s worth it! I also had one of the best pizzas and a choice of select wines for under $30 at a Michelin-rated newcomer, Vigneron. Regardless of your budget, you will find the food scene, from sidewalk vendors to the top-rated chefs, to be worth the trip to Mexico City.
Architectural wonders
On the left, the author stands on the steps of the original Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, with a view of Mexico City skyscrapers in the background. The basilica, on the right, dates back to the 1530s and is the site of one of the greatest annual pilgrimages, attracting millions of Catholics and visitors. Courtesy of Michael Kelley
Architecture and design were other surprising aspects of Mexico City that I enjoyed. Whether they’re colonial-era buildings dating back several hundred years, museums, or modern skyscrapers, I saw some of the best designs in the world. I purposely put my phone in my pocket many times during my walk so I would look up and enjoy the immense beauty of this magical city. The modern art museum, which houses the framed Frida Kahlo’s priceless artwork, was a magnificent design. I also went on my own luxury hotel tour, because the world’s best hotel brands spared no expense in design and offerings. The Ritz-Carlton sky bar, which soars 36 stories above the city and offers expansive views, is a must, even if its drinks and food rival those in New York City in terms of cost. However, it is worth a $20 martini to take in the view at night.
Mexico City and the surrounding areas are rich in history and culture. I really enjoyed the museums, as well as my day-long tour of the pyramids created by the ancient Teotihuacan native tribe. Though they mysteriously disappeared even before the Aztecs discovered the pyramids' amazing architectural and design feats built for sun worship, the spirits seem to be active! The Catholic Church is also prolific throughout the region and was part of the Spanish conquest of the Aztecs and the establishment of Mexico City in the 1500s. The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe is one of the most visited Catholic pilgrimage sites in the world, as the original church was built after 1531 and completed in 1709 in honor of Juan Diego, an Aztec who converted to Catholicism and reportedly saw the Virgin Mary. The image of the Virgin Mary was embellished on Juan Diego’s cloak and remains on display in the updated, modern church that welcomes millions every year.
Mexico City is a vibrant, accessible, and affordable choice for any diverse traveler. No matter your interest, mood, or desire, you can be sure Mexico City will have what you need at any time. Divertirse! (Have fun!)
Michael Dru Kelley is a writer, media entrepreneur, and co-founder and a principal LGBTQ+ shareholder of equalpride, publisher of The Advocate. Michael is focusing on the collective action needed among humanity to reduce meat and gas consumption and reverse climate change. Find out more about his work and his upcoming food brand at @Cleanfoodscook on Instagram and comfortfoodsmadeclean.com. His opinion pieces represent his own viewpoints and not necessarily those of equalpride, or its affiliates, partners, or management.
