Salt Lake City wasn't at all what I expected. For a place that gets casually boxed in as “conservative,” the lived experience is a lot more textured — and, to my pleasant surprise, the locals were far warmer than I’d been led to believe. Government buildings may no longer be allowed to fly Pride flags, but step into the city itself and you'll see plenty of rainbows in shop windows, cafés, and bookstores as a kind of joyful counter-gesture. There's a calmness here; a gentle, open energy that hit me almost as soon as I started walking around. Expect ID checks at all bar entrances (even if you're well above 21, as Utah liquor laws are, well, specific), the sound of humidifiers humming in hotels because the air here is bone-dry, and Harvey Milk Boulevard — a central stretch along 900 South, renamed for the civil-rights icon — flying Pride colors all year round. Utah was the first Republican-led state to enact statewide employment and housing protections for LGBTQ+ people, which helps explain why Salt Lake’s queer community feels both visible and deeply rooted.
But what really makes the city shine is its duality: a growing LGBTQ+ scene in a place still shaped by its long-standing Mormon roots. You can sip a craft cocktail downtown and be on a trail with sweeping canyon views 20 minutes later. With five national parks, much of Utah remains remarkably untouched — slot canyons, alpine lakes, desert expanses, and that famously feather-light snow skiers chase all winter quietly stretching beyond the crowds. For first-time visitors, Salt Lake offers something rare: a place that feels welcoming, a little unexpected, and wonderfully balanced between urban culture and wild, wide-open nature.
Getting There
Flying into Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC) puts you roughly seven miles from downtown, so you’re there in minutes! As a major Delta hub, SLC also sees direct service from American Airlines, United Airlines, Southwest Airlines, and Alaska Airlines, with flights arriving from cities all across North America. If you're traveling internationally, SLC offers nonstop service to Amsterdam, London, Paris, Mexico City, and Seoul.
Where To Stay
Guests can now sip cocktails in the breathtakingly beautiful Grand Hall of Asher Adams HotelCourtesy Asher Adams Hotel
Once a grand train depot that connected the American West to the rest of the country, Salt Lake City's Union Pacific Depot has been reborn as the Asher Adams Hotel—the city's first Autograph Collection property. Opened in October 2024, this 225-room hotel captures the romance of rail travel while marrying historic charm with modern design. The French Second Empire–style building retains its stained-glass windows, terrazzo floors, and breathtaking Grand Hall, now home to The Bar at Asher Adams, where guests sip cocktails beneath soaring ceilings once filled with the sound of departing trains. Upstairs, guest rooms are equipped with motion-sensor lighting, extra-large TVs, and thoughtful details that make travel easier, such as built-in USB and USB-C charging ports at the bedside and complimentary humidifiers available upon request. The rooms feel polished yet practical, perfect for resting up between city exploration and mountain adventures.
You'll be spoiled for choice when it comes to dining without having to leave the hotel. Rouser offers New American cuisine from a coal-fired kitchen in a setting inspired by vintage train dining cars. No. 119 specializes in whiskey cocktails and houses a vinyl lounge with more than 2,500 records, while Counterpart, the hotel's lobby-adjacent coffee bar, serves espresso, pastries, and light bites throughout the day. Whether warming by the fireplace or catching a concert or Jazz game at the Delta Center across the street, the Asher Adams captures the city's spirit in all its historic charm, quiet surprises, and effortless style.
The Kimpton Hotel Monaco brings historic charm and modern comfort to downtown Salt Lake City.Courtesy Kimpton Hotel Monaco
Downtown, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains and set in a restored 1920s landmark, the Kimpton Hotel Monaco delivers a stay that's both design-forward and soulfully comforting. Upon entering, the lobby sets the tone: soft lighting, a glowing fireplace, and a relaxed hum that makes it feel like a home away from home. Guestrooms feature all the touches you'd expect from a polished four-star property, plus a few distinctive ones—a yoga mat in every room, refillable luxury toiletries from Atelier Bloem, and a plant upon request to brighten your stay. If you forgot something, the front desk has you covered with loaner items ranging from lint rollers and chargers to adaptors and even humidifiers. The 24/7 fitness center is compact yet provides a comprehensive workout, featuring Peloton bikes, treadmills, an elliptical machine, a Tonal system, and free weights.
Dining downstairs at Bambara, a favorite among both guests and locals, is highly recommended for its creative, seasonal menu. Afterward, head to The Vault, the hotel's intimate cocktail lounge open daily from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. (11 p.m. on weekends). Other property standouts include their "Dark Sky" amenity for exploring Utah's stargazing spots, as well as a genuinely pet-friendly policy with no size, weight, or breed restrictions. Dogs are even invited to the hotel's nightly hosted social hour, because at the Monaco, everyone's part of the party! Within walking distance, you'll find the Capitol Theatre, Eccles Theater, and the Salt Palace Convention Center, putting some of the city's best entertainment just a short stroll away.
Where to Eat & Drink
Tacos, cocktails, and a little mystery—Bodega and The Rest keep Salt Lake nights fun and unexpected.Photo by Austen Diamond / Courtesy Visit Salt Lake
Bodega and The Rest feel like two sides of Salt Lake's nightlife personality in one address. Upstairs, Bodega is a tiny, tavern-style hangout with just a handful of seats, cold beer, and cocktails that punch well above their weight. Their “Ain’t No Sunshine” mixes tequila, coconut cream, Tuaca, lime, spiced agave, and Honest John’s sarsaparilla bitters into a perfect winter warmer. The small snack menu leans bar-friendly: chips with guacamole or rajas dip, brined fries, tacos, and burgers. Ask the bartender about “the restroom,” and you may be guided to a steel door that opens into The Rest, a speakeasy hidden below street level. It’s a popular spot, so reservations help. Down there, it's mood lighting and a cozy lodge vibe that feels worlds away from the street. A record player spins everything from '90s alt to soft rock—The Cranberries played through my meal, which made this Irishman feel right at home—and the cocktails become more intricate, like the Dreamscape with blanco tequila, passion fruit liqueur, dry curaçao, lime, pineapple, and spiced agave.
Takashi’s sushi sets the bar high, and somehow the cocktails meet it.Courtesy Takashi
Takashi is one of those places locals mention with no hesitation when you ask where to eat. It’s a lively downtown spot known for beautifully made sushi, thoughtful small plates, and a staff that actually seems happy to talk you through the menu. Chef Takashi Gibo trained in Japan for several years, and you can feel that precision in everything from the sashimi to the specialty rolls. They’re walk-in only for most of the night, so expect a wait, but it rarely feels like a burden — their next-door bar, Post Office Place, makes it easy to pass the time with a cocktail. Vegan and gluten-free diners are looked after, too, which makes the whole experience even more welcoming.
The Rose Establishment keeps breakfast interesting with seasonal lattes and mouth-watering waffles.Courtesy The Rose Establishment
The Rose Establishment has the kind of millennial-leaning charm that makes breakfast or lunch feel a little softer around the edges. The space is split between a sit-down dining area and a grab-and-go counter, so you can linger with a latte or take something with you. The menu leans fresh and flexible, with plenty of vegetarian dishes and items that can be made vegan or gluten-free. Highlights include the coconut yogurt parfait with seasonal jam, the beet trio tartine, and a lush shakshuka served with toasted sourdough. Their seasonal drinks are genuinely fun — think gingerbread cappuccinos, cranberry-rosemary fizz, and rose-scented lattes. They also include an 18 percent service charge to support livable wages, which feels refreshingly forward-thinking. Open daily from 8 a.m. until 2 p.m., it’s an easy, relaxed stop that’s worth adding to your list.
Vertical Diner is a beloved staple of Salt Lake City’s vegan dining scene.Courtesy Visit Salt Lake
Vertical Diner felt like a little love letter to vegans — the kind of place where you walk in, skim the menu, and immediately relax because everything is fair game. As someone who’s used to navigating menus with a mental highlighter, it was almost emotional to sit in a classic diner setting and know that the mac & cheese bites, the Asian lettuce wraps, the burgers, the milkshakes, the breakfast staples, the sushi — every last thing — was fully plant-based. And not in a “good for vegan food” kind of way, but in a genuinely craveable, comforting, come-back-again-tomorrow sort of way. Their best-selling Ian Mackaye burger (a lentil patty stacked with mac and cheese and their signature Vertical sauce) is messy in the best sense, and the kind of thing you think about days later. The cocktails lean playful — the Naughty Chai with rum and oat milk is a standout — and the milkshakes made with local Monkeywrench ice cream are worth saving room for. The food was so mouth-watering, I returned the very next night for my farewell meal.
A peek at the pastries and perfectly poured lattes at Eva’s Bakery, a downtown favorite.Courtesy Eva's Bakery
If you need a mid-morning pick-me-up, Salt Lake has a couple of spots that make slowing down feel like part of the trip. Eva’s Bakery became my go-to when I wanted something warm, comforting, and genuinely made with care. It’s a charming café where Chef Charlie Perry carries on his great-grandmother Eva’s love of French cooking — and yes, their croissants are worth the detour. La Barba Coffee at The Gateway, the city's large, open-air retail and residential complex, pours an excellent espresso in a space that’s perfect for catching your breath between shopping. Both open early, so you’re covered no matter when the craving hits.
And if you want something a little more leisurely, Gourmandise is an easy win. It’s bright and spacious with a menu that considers multiple dietary needs (vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free), from lighter salads to heartier sandwiches and brunch plates. Their pastries nod to the bakery’s European roots, and the vibe makes it easy to settle in for a slow morning or a mid-day reset. It’s also open late (to 10 pm most days and 11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays), so you can wander in for an evening dessert when you’re not quite ready to call it a night.
Salt Lake’s Gay Bars
Salt Lake's queer community shows up fully and without pretense.Courtesy Michael Crosdale Jr
The SLC queer nightlife is fueled by a mix of longtime locals, newcomers, and plenty of people who’ll casually mention their “former Mormon” chapter over a drink — a common backstory here. Club Try-Angles is the beating heart of the scene: a 21+ late-night staple with the coldest, cheapest pours in town, a big dance floor, and a year-round patio where half the bar ends up at some point in the night. Expect karaoke on Thursdays, themed events throughout the week, and summer BBQs on the patio from Mother’s Day to Labor Day. They’re open Monday through Friday from 4 pm, Saturday from 6 pm, and Sunday from 2 pm. Just down Harvey Milk Boulevard, Why Kiki shifts from a laid-back cocktail bar to a full-on dance floor as the night wears on, with weekly drag shows, Sunday drag brunch, and a silent disco tucked downstairs. It’s closed Monday–Wednesday, and open Thursday–Saturday until 1 am, and Sundays from 11 am–1 am.
For something a little clubbier, MILK+ brings in DJs, performers, and weekend crowds that pack the dance floor. Fridays and Saturdays are their strongest nights, while weekdays can be quieter. Hours are Wednesday to Saturday, 5 pm-2 am, and Sunday from 3 pm–2 am. Rounding things out is Metro Music Hall, a major ally venue that’s become a queer favorite for drag shows, touring acts, and late-night DJ sets. They’re open nightly, typically from 6:30 or 8 pm until 1–2 am, depending on the event.
What To Do
Alta's famously soft, abundant snow is reason enough to make the trip to Salt Lake.Courtesy Chloe Jimenez
Salt Lake City has no shortage of ski options, but Alta Ski Area was the clear consensus among people I spoke with, and it’s the one I now enthusiastically pass along. One of the things that surprised me most about the area is just how close the mountains feel; twenty or thirty minutes after leaving downtown, you're surrounded by peaks and some of the best snow on the planet. Alta was the highlight of my trip, and honestly, it's hard to imagine visiting SLC in winter without carving at least a few runs here. Alta has been independently owned since 1938 and remains proudly skiers-only. Powder days are practically a personality trait — with an annual average of around 548 inches, the snow is famously light, dry, and a dream to ski. Terrain ranges from gentle beginner slopes to long, satisfying intermediates and steeper challenges up high.
If you're taking a lesson, instructors here are excellent at reading your confidence level, tailoring the session, and helping you progress quickly. And if you need gear, Ski N' See makes it easy, allowing you to pick up rentals the evening before (after 4 pm) at no extra cost. They’ve also got you covered for accessories, tunes, repairs, waxing, and free overnight storage. Between runs, warm up at Alta Java, the cozy coffee shop at the Albion base, or head upstairs to Albion Grill, the main food hall, where the chili — including a vegan option — hits the spot after a few hours in the cold. Whatever tickles your fancy, you won’t go hungry at Alta — there are plenty of places to refuel up on the hill, too.
Red Butte Garden offers peaceful foothill views and native blooms just minutes from downtown.Austen Diamond / Courtesy Visit Salt Lake
Once the snow melts, the city becomes a nature-lover’s paradise with trails weaving from downtown into the mountains. Memory Grove Park, a 10-minute walk from downtown, offers a gentle, shaded path along City Creek into the foothills. For a broader view, the Bonneville Shoreline Trail, just beyond downtown, offers a panoramic view of the city. Craving a quick summit or a quirky viewpoint? Ensign Peak’s short, steep trail above the Capitol results in sweeping views of downtown and Great Salt Lake, while the moderate Living Room trail ends in a cluster of red rock stone 'chairs' where you can sit and enjoy the views. Or if you're in more of a meandering mood, Red Butte Garden, near the University of Utah, offers peaceful walking paths through native plant landscapes and seasonal blooms.
Salt Lake’s museum scene is compact but genuinely rewarding, offering thoughtful stops that are easy to weave into a day of exploring. Clark Planetarium, at The Gateway, is open seven days a week with three floors of free exhibits and two theaters — a quick, engaging visit that rarely takes more than an hour or two unless you stay for an IMAX show (generally around 45 minutes and costs $10), which I highly recommend. A short walk away, the Utah Museum of Contemporary Art brings a steady rotation of boundary-pushing work; as a non-collecting institution (and a repeat grant recipient from both the Andy Warhol Foundation and the NEA), it always feels fresh. It’s closed Sundays and Mondays with a $10 suggested donation. On the University of Utah campus, the Utah Museum of Fine Arts serves as the state’s premier fine arts museum, blending global collections with exhibitions by local creators, including LGBTQ+ artists. Closed on Mondays, general admission is $19.95, with free entry on the first Wednesday and third Saturday each month.
Be sure to check local listings for exact dates and lineups, but here are a few of Salt Lake City's major annual events worth timing your trip around:
Salt Lake City Pride (June) — June transforms Salt Lake into a colorful celebration, with the Utah Pride Festival, organized by the Utah Pride Center, and the lively downtown parade taking center stage. A rally leads into a march, followed by a weekend of music, art, food, and a deeply participatory vibe. There's space for drag pageants, a protest march, and community-vigil moments, all contributing to an open, inclusive celebration of identity and solidarity.
LOVELOUD Music Festival (June) — Also in June, the LOVELOUD Music Festival, founded by Dan Reynolds of Imagine Dragons, brings together music and LGBTQ+ advocacy in one high-energy event. The festival celebrates community, love, and support through performance and purpose.
Utah Arts Festival (typically Mid-June) — For three days each summer, the Utah Arts Festival transforms the downtown area with a diverse array of visual art, live performances, installations, food trucks, and family-friendly zones.
Pioneer Day (July 24) — July 24 is Utah's state holiday commemorating the arrival of the Mormon pioneers. Expect to find a large parade and local festivities set up throughout the city, the kind of hometown celebration that gives you a taste of the local flavor and a chance to mingle with locals.
Utah Queer Film Festival (October) — Formerly known as Damn These Heels, the Utah Queer Film Festival is the Mountain West’s longest-running LGBTQ+ film festival. What began as a small Pride-week series in 2003 has grown into a full weekend of international features, indie standouts, short-film programs, community partnerships, and post-screening conversations that draw a thoughtful, engaged crowd.
Lights at Temple Square (Day after Thanksgiving through New Year's) — Beginning the day after Thanksgiving, Temple Square takes on its holiday identity, with the lights turning on and the grounds shining every night until just after New Year's Day. It's atmospheric, beautiful, and a perfect way to lean into the winter season.
What To Pack
A few essentials that made my Salt Lake trip smoother — from slope-ready shades to cozy cocktail mixers.Courtesy Retailers
Packing for Salt Lake really depends on the season, but here are a few things that made my recent trip noticeably smoother, and honestly, more enjoyable:
Sunglasses: I swear by Ombraz Dolomite Sunglasses ($160) when I travel. With no arms to snap off or pinch your temples, they pack flat, stay put on hikes and ski runs, and somehow survive the bottom of any bag. The brand also plants 20 mangrove trees in Madagascar for every pair sold, which makes them feel even better to wear.
Cocktail mixers: If you enjoy a cozy après-ski moment, toss a five-pack of Instant Cocktail Mixers ($13) into your bag. They’re lightweight, easy to make with hot water and Tincup Whiskey (or a whiskey of your choice), and the flavors—spiked cider, hot toddy, and old fashioned—are spot-on. A portion of the proceeds supports Leave No Trace, which aligns nicely with being in Utah’s big outdoors.
Waterproof gloves: For wandering around a chilly city without freezing your fingers every time you take out your phone, the Vessi Forecast Gloves ($58) are a great call. They’re thin, fully waterproof, touchscreen-friendly, and ideal for taking photos on the go.
Phone wallet & grip: The OhSnap Snap Grip Wallet (on sale for $69.99) keeps your cards, phone stand, and phone grip all in one slim, magnetic piece. It’s especially handy in airports and on ski days when you want fewer things in your pockets. It holds up to eight cards and snaps onto any magnetic mount.
Other Important Information
- Minors & Curfew: If you're traveling with teens, note that Salt Lake City has a minor curfew. Those 15 and under must be in from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m., while 16–17-year-olds follow a 1 a.m. to 5 a.m. window. Exceptions include being with a parent or guardian, work shifts, errands, and school or religious events.
- Alcohol & cannabis: Utah’s drinking laws are famously specific. Bars and restaurants stop serving at 1 am, and ID checks happen at the door. Cannabis remains illegal statewide for recreational use.
- Getting around: Salt Lake’s light-rail system, TRAX, is one of the easiest ways to navigate the city, and the downtown Free Fare Zone lets you move between hotels, restaurants, and major sights without paying a fare. Trains run until just after midnight on weekdays and about 2 am on Saturdays, with service starting around 4:30 a.m. on weekdays and 6 a.m. on Saturdays; Sunday service wraps around 11:30 p.m. For airport transfers, All Area Shuttle remains one of the most reliable and reasonably priced options in the region.
- Hydration: At roughly 4,200 feet, the elevation sneaks up on you. Expect to feel thirstier faster, and know that alcohol hits harder than at sea level. Keep water with you, especially if you’re hiking or bar-hopping.
- Weather: Salt Lake’s seasons swing wide. Summer is warm and sunny, often landing between 85-95°F (29-35°C) with cooler evenings once the sun dips behind the mountains. Winter brings cold, dry air, snow, and daytime highs in the 30s-40s°F (0-7°C).
