My big queer cruise trip to Alaska

“It looks like Superman’s Fortress of Solitude,” my partner observed as we marveled at the Dawes Glacier, which filled our view from the deck of the Holland America cruise ship.

It’s one thing to read about a glacier in a news article or textbook. It’s quite another experience to witness in person — and it’s a super sight, indeed. The miles-long river of ice glowed with an unearthly shade of blue. Occasionally, a sheet of ice would fall into the sea to join a trail of icebergs, a process called shelving. The vista was nestled in the Endicott Arm, an Alaskan fjord teeming with other breathtaking natural wonders: cascading waterfalls, granite cliffs, gliding eagles, a pod of whales passing by.

Daniel Reynolds and Randolph Frazier in the Endicott ArmDaniel Reynolds

The glacier was the heart of our Alaskan cruise with VACAYA, an LGBTQ+ vacation company that filled the ship with queer folks for a July 27-August 3 summer sailing. We had voyaged with VACAYA before — the group’s popular Caribbean expedition made us into cruise converts. So in the good company of nearly 2,000 fellow travelers, we decided to venture into the Last Frontier. Summer is also the best time to see northern nature in its bloom — though it can still get rainy and chilly, particularly at night, so we made sure to pack a few jackets and sweaters along with the swim trunks.

It wasn’t just the wild that beckoned us, though. It feels cliché to think of travel as an escape, but well, I needed one. Unlike Superman, I didn’t need solitude per se. But the stress of the daily news cycle while living in an American city was taking its toll. And what better place to get away than Alaska, where, as the saying goes, you’re either running away or running toward something.

VACAYA threw daily theme parties like “lumberjack.”VACAYA

The first stop on our eight-day run (after Seattle, where we departed) was Juneau. The Alaskan capital boasts its own “drive-up” glacier, the Mendenhall Glacier, and there are a variety of ways to explore it: hikes and canoes, helicopter tours, and salmon bakes. Our cruise allowed us to book these expeditions in advance, even just before docking, through its app or help desk. The Juneau Visitor Center, which also connects tourists to these services, is conveniently located near the dock. It’s adjacent to the Goldbelt Tram, which takes you on a six-minute cable car ride up Mount Roberts, where tourists can enjoy dining, retail, and mountain trails at a 1,600-foot elevation.

Daniel out on the cruise deckDaniel Reynolds

My partner and I focused on Downtown Juneau — a charming district straight out of the Gold Rush era — where we grabbed a beer at the Alaskan Brewing Co. and salmon, rockfish, and halibut tacos at Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos. Before returning to the ship, we ducked into Alaskan Hotel and Bar, the city’s oldest operating hotel, whose rainbow-flagged saloon was recommended to us by a queer local.

Another Alaskan stop on our cruise was Ketchikan, dubbed the Salmon Capital of the World due to its robust commercial fishing. The city is also rich in Indigenous culture, boasting the world’s largest gathering of standing totem poles. While several folks embarked on wildlife expeditions in the Tongass National Forest, a big Ketchikan draw was the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, in which handsome lumberjacks, paying homage to the region’s history of logging, performed feats of climbing, chainsawing, and comedy.

John Cameron Mitchell on Holland America’s World StageVACAYA

Next door, we feasted at the Alaska Fish House. Don’t mind the line of people: The fish-and-chips sampler of Pacific cod, local salmon, and halibut was worth the trip alone. Walking back to the dock through colorful Creek Street was great for gift shops and Instagram shots. And, fun fact, this street was once a bustling red-light district. Visit Dolly’s House Museum for this history and a tour of the city’s most famous brothel.

Time at sea also had its pleasures. I’d be remiss not to mention VACAYA’s own red-light district; the adults-only vacation company roped aside a portion of the deck for late-night connections. But this was only one small diversion on the robust VACAYA itinerary offered to guests of all interests.

The Alaskan Hotel and Bar in Juneau had inviting rainbow decor.Daniel Reynolds

As a musical lover, I was in heaven. Each night, headliners including Alex Newell, John Cameron Mitchell, La Voix, and Billy Gilman brought the house (ship?) down on the World Stage. In addition to singing his classic songs from Hedwig and the Angry Inch, Mitchell hosted a viewing party for Shortbus, where, over wine, he dished on some behind-the-scenes insights of filming his cult classic, infamous for featuring real sex. (One of the opener’s orgasms is fake; I’ll let you guess which one.)

VACAYA also has a talent for introducing its audience to fabulous new performers. I gagged on the music of Provincetown-based singing drag trio Qya Cristál, Roxy Pops, and Delta Miles and laughed my ass off at the surreal comedy of Elf Lyons, who electrified the World Stage with an impersonation of a pony with bloodlust and a caricature of a Hitchcock heroine. Also not to be missed was bingo with Sister Helen Holy, who drew one of the week’s biggest crowds, and drag brunch with the VACAYA Vixens.

A “northern lights”show with VACAYAVACAYA

Of course, there were the nightly parties, which all gave queer twists to northern themes. Over the course of a week, I dressed like a lumberjack, a Frozen character, a Canadian hockey player, and a giraffe. And in my coziest ensemble, I wore a hooded onesie for a late-night light show on the deck. What an experience to be surrounded by queer people and gazing up at the sky together. Were there earthly concerns still? Many! But for a brief, blessed time, we had just ourselves, the sea, and the stars.

The writer was invited by VACAYA to cover this cruise. Learn more about upcoming trips to Mexico, the Caribbean, India, and more at myvacaya.com.

Cruise ship at port in Juneau, AlaskaShutterstock

This article is part of Out's Nov/Dec 2025 issue, which hits newsstands October 28. Support queer media and subscribe — or download the issue now through Apple News, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader.