Brand X: Spurr

The Label
Did the recession downsize the sheer number of male archetypes found in the latest round of New York fall collections? Not really. Plenty were still on display, from the wayward/well-funded dreamer (Michael Bastian), to the boarding school fop (Band of Outsiders), to the vamp dandy (Robert Geller). Compelling? Yes. But, who to have a vodka martini with afterwards? The models wearing Simon Spurr's eponymous label, with its modern three-piece suits and sartorial interpretation of puffy bomber jackets, had my vote.

The Mastermind
Spurr, a native of a small English hamlet 30 miles southeast of London, is no neophyte. His design resume includes Yves Saint Laurent during the Slimane years and Ralph Lauren, where he was design director for Purple and Black Labels. Spurr's original collection was steeped in denim, and while few jeans brands ever spawn compelling sportswear (take a gander at your local Nordstrom Rail to see what I mean), his design talent clearly transcends the world of five-pocket boot cuts. "For me, menswear has been moving back towards a more sophisticated, elegant look," he says. "But that doesn't mean you have to dress like a peacock."

It's never an easy time to venture out on your own, but Spurr, 34, is zen about the process thus far. "I take two steps sideways, and mybe one step backwards, in an attempt to someday take five steps forward. I'm not in this for personal glory."

Spring Hits
Look for Spurr's bonded cotton trenchcoat with a sublime, slim fit, for starters. Equally stunning is a deerskin weekend bag with an external sleeve that fits an umbrella

The Stores
Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York, Scoop

Bottom Line
Not cheap nor always easy to find. But a worthy contender for best emerging men's line.