Hair 203: How to Better Manage Curly Hair Without Over Processing It
| 08/20/20
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Looks matter. Yes, but for some, great hair matters more. Some would go as far as to say that hair is "everything." I'm not perfect--as my partner frequently reminds me--but I do have pretty darn good hair. Thick, wavy, blond-brown with a few grays. It's my calling card. My superpower. And, yeah, I. Love. It.
But when I talk coiffures with my friends, family, and colleagues, they never think they have "processed" hair when, in fact, they almost certainly do. A brief shower with harsh water or taking a dip in a pool or at a beach is all it takes to chemically alter your hair. Even as one cosmetology state board question notes, simply rolling your hair in Prell shampoo overnight can actually have the effect of a perm. Yikes! That said, how can a veteran beauty guy (that's me) not have chemicals, color, keratin, etc.? Don't you worry, I do it all! From Beverly Hills to Miami Beach, I've been telling clients for a quarter century to stop over-shampooing their hair. I, for example, vigorously rinse and condition my noggin every day for freshness but only shampoo once a week.
Which leads me to this: All of the examples I mentioned above essentially turn my hair into a full-blown afro, which isn't quite the right look on me. How do I--and other naturally curly-haired people--deal with this on days when the goal is a straighter but still wavy look? Well, using creams, serums, butters, water-soluble waxes, pomades, oils, and on and on. And after that, using more creams and serums after a round-brush blowout or smoothing iron. "Natural" hair--like all hair--is gorgeous when it looks healthy.
The science around hair has changed greatly, but our quench-starved hair actually hasn't. The difference between clean, healthy hair--sulfate-free, vegan, or organic--is that we can actually cleanse and condition our hair without losing much color and not have the usual frizz. Briogeo adheres to a "six-free" ingredient rule that excludes harmful substances and takes the guesswork out of reading product labels. The Briogeo product is so pure you could almost eat it (but please don't). Avocado-Quinoa Co-Wash, Strength + Moisture Leave-in Mask, Rosarco Milk Leavein Conditioning Spray (mind-blowingly good), and Strengthening Treatment Oil (amazing repair) will change your hair life.
Let's add a tad more luxe salon experience to your routine. Philip B is more than a celebrity hairstylist. His overt passion for movie star-hair health and scalp is backed by a decadent, rich lineup of products. His "how-to" video is spot-on adorbs! If you're not sure where to begin with his line, start with a Four Step Hair + Scalp Treatment Set (oil the ends and oil cleanse the scalp). The CBD Scalp + Body Oil is great for the in-between days, while the Weightless Conditioning Water spray and Russian Amber Imperial Conditioner are next-level amazeballs--true award worthy indulgences for your hair. Indulge a little.
Let's talk tools. At this point, you're surely already in the know about Dyson Supersonic hair dryers, providing rapid drying with less frizz and more shine. But the Dyson Airwrap Complete will give you versatility between smooth-ironed via air-wrap barrel, brush smooth, or blown smooth. Game changer. And of course, you want to go cordless. Somewhere between VoloBeauty.com, AerDryer.com, Kickstarter and the Emmys' red-carpet celebrity swag bags, the newest, lightweight cord-free hand dryers can be found. Make it your mission to get your hands on one.
Here's how we make straighter hair look effortless. When wet-styling hair, I like to use a Military Palm Brush by GetJackBlack.com or fine-tooth comb (after a gentle detangle) to permeate lush products into the hair. The fine-tooth comb also helps to mat the hair down for easier setting, just like the smokin' hot guys in Madonna's iconic "Vogue" video. Now that your Rico Suave look is in place, don't touch it. Not even once. Let it dry firm before running serumed fingers through it. And then hard comb again. The serums and creams will keep your hair looking like bouncy tendrils, not fuzz. If you comb your hair hard enough to set, you'll get a more straight-smooth look. Going natural? You still need to feed your hair a ton of nutrients, spray vitamins, and leave in emollients before rocking a full-on Macy Gray (how hot is her look?) Expert tip: If not overworked with your hands or tools, diffused hair with a lot of cream and serums makes for bouncy, luscious locks.
Do you think your hair is beyond repair? It may be salvageable. Back in the day, I had chest-length hair with a relaxer, bleach highlights, and daily round brush torture. (Writing this now, it doesn't seem as glamorous as it was.) So what saved my locks from eternal damnation? Paul Brown Hawaii. I slept with its Resurrect on my head for two nights and continued with daily Treat Elite leave-in treatment. With Hawaiian Protein Flora Complex and Kukui Nut Oil, your hair can be reborn. Mine was--yes, tears were involved.
Life can be so simple sometimes: Here's wishing you a great hair day, every day.