Meet the Young Menswear Designers Disrupting the Runway
Neil Grotzinger, NIHL
Provenance: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Who he is: With a BA from Pratt Institute, and on track for an MFA from the Parsons School of Design, Grotzinger was shortlisted for the 2018 LVMH Prize and made his New York Fashion Week debut last season to rave reviews.
His style: He contrasts conventional men's silhouettes--like those of the uniforms at the Air Force Academy in his hometown--with decorative embroidery and delicate beadwork, offering up gender-fluid looks with homoerotic undertones.
In his words: "In recent years, it seems that more people are starting to construct their identities in a way that serves as social commentary on the 21st century, and I hope to see my work play a part in this conversation. The message behind our brand is fairly straightforward--it's all about the subversion of masculine stereotypes and exploring gender's gray areas."
Davide Marello, Davi Paris
Provenance: Asti, Italy
Who he is: After nine years as head of tailoring for Gucci (first under Frida Giannini, then Alessandro Michele), he became the first creative director for Boglioli. Marello debuted his gender-neutral line of exquisite printed clothing in Paris this past season.
His style: Combining Italian craftsmanship with a French-influenced aesthetic, Marello produces very personal pieces inspired by Impressionist art and childhood memories from his grandmother's atelier. The goal: to encourage men to embrace the joie de vivre in dressing.
In his words: "My work at Boglioli was about trying to refresh an existing brand, to inject new ideas and storytelling to create a complete lifestyle. Davi is a brand-new project that's more about my personal tastes and obsessions. There are no boundaries."
William Stautberg, Stautberg
Provenance: Forsyth County, Georgia
Who he is: A recent Parsons School of Design graduate and a first recipient of the Pitti Tutorship Reward, Stautberg previously worked under Thom Browne and Zana Bayne.
His style: Stautberg flirts with notions of masculinity and nostalgia, giving sharply tailored menswear classics a cheeky, fanciful twist.
In his words: "I didn't feel like I aligned with most of the clothing on the market today, so that led me to put my own ideas into action. I also feel that making your own clothes is a great way to express your attitude. That's really important to me and my brand right now."
