Millinery Madness
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
courtesy Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
The quirkiest of hats appeared on the runway this season, but for some reason, this time around, they actually looked wearable. Maybe we can blame this trend on the Prada-fication of faux pas we normally deem reprehensible — or it could just be society’s fear of wearing a fun hat. Either way, as a personal collector of headwear of all kinds, the curious delights of these millinery wonders popping up on some of the season’s biggest runways delighted me.
From the extremely dipped and askew newsboy caps at Prada to the colonial boy-soldier hats at Paul Smith, the styling was key in pulling the concept together … or maybe, these presentations just loosened up the idea of what type of hat is wearable! Comme Des Garçons, Y-3, and Feng Chen Wang offered up fuzzy trucker hats and skullcaps for the freezing temperatures, while Charles Jeffrey Loverboy unleashed more whimsical caps to let imaginations run wild.
Seeing Red
Dries Van Noten
courtesy Dries Van Noten
In a vast ocean of typical fall hues, one color consistently popped up on the runway, usually as a one-off: red. Like a scarlet letter amid the browns, beiges, and blacks, a shock of deep sultry red appeared in plenty of collections as outerwear and formal wear. Dsquared2 and EgonLab sent out puffer jackets fit for a tundra while Ralph Lauren, Amiri, and Ernest W. Baker deployed structured blazers and entire suits. The auspicious color almost always made an appearance in the middle of many designers’ collections, providing a respite between changes of theme or scheme of the showcase.
Sleeves of Furry
Saint Laurent
courtesy Saint Laurent
Once upon a time, a lady never left home without her mink stole and muff on a cold winter’s day. Well, it’s time for the boys to finally adapt to this idea, because a slew of top brands showcased (faux) fur as neck and glove accessories.
Saint Laurent and Lanvin gave us oversized luxurious stoles draped around the arms of well-dressed models, while Louis Gabriel Nouchi and GmbH unveiled voluminous fur zip collars and wraps in an array of colors and fabrics. Last but not least, Dior blessed the runway with three tailored coats, complete with exaggerated shearling cuffs that left me dreaming for days.
Fall Fluorescence
Walter Van Beirendonck
courtesy Walter Van Beirendonck
Whip out your vintage ’80s neon, because the runways were filled with fluorescent colors penetrating through the neutrality of the atypical fall color palette. Color blocking of bright yellows, purples, and blues showed up at Willy Chavarria, Lii, Lanvin, and Walter Van Beirendonck. Splashes of teal at Prada and Bluemarble and shocking purples at ERL reminded us that fall/winter doesn’t all have to be in the doldrums of color.
Martin Gregory Jerez is a stylist and lover of vintage fashion and upcoming designers. Learn more @martingregory and martingregoryjerez.com
This article is part of OUT’s Mar-Apr 2026 print issue, now on newsstands. Support queer media and subscribe — or download the issue through Apple News+, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader.





