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Truman Says

Marc For Life: An Interview with the Designer on the Eve of His CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award

Marc Jacobs is Meryl Streep. Huh? Well, if Streep dabbled in clothing, not crying, that is. This Monday the designer will pick up the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in addition to seemingly requisite nomination for Best Womenswear Designer of the Year, which he has won 9 times before, making him America's fashion golden-boy with a track record that only the most celebrated of actresses could appreciate.

When not dividing his talents between his own two companies -- mainline Marc Jacobs and diffusion line Marc by Marc Jacobs, he is in the world's fashion capital, Paris, helping fuel the Louis Vuitton craze. Jacobs, simply put, is fashion gold. With a storied past and an extravagant, yet oft-concealed, personal life, Jacobs' vision excites both editors and customers and he does so in an industry that often casts off designers as quickly as they do last season's trends. Whether you say he's savvy businessman, a gifted genius, a maverick who presents fireworks with no substance doesn't really matter -- what matters is that 25 years into his career, you're still talking about him.

Facing his impending prize, Jacobs sat down with WWD's Bridget Foley to talk about his career. The three-ring circus leader seems to be having a moment of repose, as he gave up on the dazzle and delivered thoughtful, thought-provoking, modest and reflective answers. So, get your catcher's mitt out, because he is dropping some serious pearls of knowledge on your brain today:

Bridget Foley: What was your first reaction [upon hearing he was to be awarded the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award]?
Marc Jacobs: When I think of Lifetime Achievement, the first thing that comes to my mind is some venerable actor who hasn't been in a movie in 30 years whom the Academy is honoring; Lifetime Achievement seems quite final to me. I [prefer to look at it] as an 'In-the-Process-of Award.'

That bottle [for Justin Beiber's forthcoming fragrance] is very similar to your Lola.
You know, I look around the room and I look at the work we've done and a quote I always bastardize but I really believe in, is something Chanel said: 'He who insists on his own creativity has no memory.'

Do you follow what younger designers are doing?
People ask me about the younger designers, Alex Wang and all of them, I think they're great...There's always room for new designers, new musicians, new artists, new writers. Madonna, I don't think is showing any signs of slowing down, but that doesn't mean Lady Gaga isn't taking over the world.

Did you know from the first time you picked up a pencil or looked at a dress or whatever that you were a great talent?
No. I still wouldn't say I am.
Come on.
I wouldn't. I don't mind if you say it but I'm not going to say it myself.

Where do you fit in fashion history?
I don't know. I guess many years will have to pass and we'll have to look back and see what the social contribution is....I think the greatest contributors to fashion are women. Chanel, Vionnet. I think Vivienne Westwood; I think Miuccia Prada; Schiaparelli, Rei Kawakubo.

Is fashion art? Can it be art?
You have to get into defining art, which I just think is pretentious. My favorite quote, and again, I'm sure I'm twisting this into my own words, is something Mainbocher said: "Fashion is not an art; it's part of the art of living." I agree. I think fashion is not an art but it is part of the art of living just like good wine, just like beautiful interiors, just like flower arranging.

Your favorite show -- still grunge?
My favorite of all time will be grunge.

So you don't think this is a dull time for fashion?
No, I don't. I mean, is it the most exciting time? I don't know. It seems like hindsight is the best way to look at all that stuff.

How nice is it to have the resources available to do that [have three elevators built for his Louis Vuitton fall 2011 runway show].
I asked for six; I got three. You want a show? Okay guys, I'll give you a show.

But really, you should read the whole interview. It's a gem.

30 Years of Out100Out / Advocate Magazine - Jonathan Groff and Wayne Brady

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