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Vetements Spring '17 RTW Kicks Ass

Vetements Spring '17 RTW Kicks Ass

Illustration by Hilton Dresden

After his tour de force at Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia opens Couture Week with a bang.

The Vetements couture '17 RTW represented another groundbreaking triumph for man of the moment, Demna Gvasalia.

A modern, comfortable range of leathers, denims, cottons, and nylons gave the show a very laid-back, ultra-chill feel --something that can be difficult to attain when men and women alike are also showing off tracksuits, gargantuan coats, half-gowns, and shiny knee-high boots.

After showing his early collections in gay sex clubs, Gvasalia threw his guerrilla fashion show for Vetements at the Parisian mega-store Galeries Lafayette, and generated the electric feel of a nightclub by enlisting all his hip art friends to swarm the space. Colossal coolness oozed from each look. Among our favorites were draped trenches, unbuttoned holes in shirts, and flowing "semi-gowns," where one leg of the dress is made of a stiff leather pant.

The wide variety in silhouette reminded us of another of Gvasalia's recent achievements: his debut men's collection for Balenciaga, which showed the boxiest jackets we'd seen since the late '80s. Now, the designer has rounded out his corners a bit, while still maintaining unprecedented shapes and forms.

For this ready-to-wear collection, he teamed up with 17 established brands to provide top-notch collaborations: Levi's, Comme des Garcons, and Champion, to name a few. Gvasalia told WWD, "For us, the Couture approach is to use the know-how of these manufacturers. For example, Schott does the best biker jacket. We want to keep working with them as it's an interesting way to grow."

Reshaping the high fashion world one jumpsuit at a time, Demna Gvasalia continues to surprise, redefine, and above all, wow the fashion world.

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