The Best of New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2016 in 25 Looks
By Julien Sauvalle
Designers embrace the androgynous trend and let their creativity run wild.
Frankie B Hollywood
Designer Chadwick Bell resurrected the iconic brand Frankie B Hollywood and took it to back to California, with a mixed, rock'n'roll chic collection, featuring distressed denim, leather cropped jackets, and gunmetal pleated skirts.
Hood By Air
Rising star Shayne Oliver continued to explore gender-bending in his spring collection, which was full of flowy, athletic moments, but also offered intricated design work on denim, and some borderline-NSFW athletic wear.
Freed from his duties at Balenciaga, Wang goes back to his New York roots and focuses on doing what he does best: Relaxed sportswear for men and women. This black jumpsuit would look dashing on anyone who can pull it off.
The unofficial spokesmen for ambisexual fashion, Scott Studenberg and John Targon of Baja East showed a colorful collection of boho-chic styles that looked like a throwback to a 1980s Daryl Hannah movie. This electric red ensemble makes a strong case for the men's sarong, which can look as good as a pair of fitted slacks.
Devon Halfnight LeFlufy
James Dean lives, and his spirit is invoked by newcomer Devon Halfnight LeFlufy (yes, that's his real name), a young Canadian designer who learnt the ropes under the mentorship of Walter Van Beirendonck in Antwerp. The look is more disheveled, bohemian, and so very now.
In his slow-burning show, creative director Riccardo Tisci had plenty of perfectly cut suits in immaculate shades of black and white, but also hybrid takes on menswear, which gave us a sort of Wednesday Addams-on-steroid look that, somehow, completely works.
The people-loving Jeremy Scott is asking us to tune in, but sets the clock back to the origins of MTV, with acid-colors television screens printed on shirts and pants. Somehow, it feels completely fresh and exhilirating, like when MTV was still showing music videos.
The made-in-USA label showed a dozen of women's looks inspired by a relaxed desert expedition, and a few crush-worth menswear pieces, such as this sublime beige kimono-coat.
Photo: Justin Chung
Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista is gearing up for the Rio Olympics, it seems. His collection was an ode to the flags of world nations. Here we detected a minimalist tribute to France (bonus points for the mesh overshit), but the show evolved into a firework of patriotic pride for global fashion citizens.
In the same vein of "fun designers" as Patricia Field, Betsey Johnson, and the aforementioned Jeremy Scott, Libertine designer Johnson Hartig reminds us that when fashion goes totally berserk, it's often for the best results, as evidenced in this sequin running suit, perfect for the race tracks if you're a recently out athlete, or to dance the night away at The Standard afterpary.
Busy year for Nicola Formichetti: On top of giving a total reboot to Diesel, he's back at work on his own under the label Nicopanda, which reflects his ongoing obsession for Japanese manga and pop culture. Clearly, he knew how to catch our eye at his New York fashion week presentation, and we're not alone: even Lady Gaga came.
Designer Telfar Clemens wants you to wear your underwear out. His spring collection seemed to fit perfectly into this season's running theme of lace details, silky nightgowns, and opulent kimonos (see: Givenchy, Thakoon). The light materials on a palette of pastel tones looked relaxed and effortlessly chic, and makes us look forward to next summer.
Uplifted by their recent CFDA Award win, Public School's Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne dive deep into womenswear this season, with a collection full of street-smart, androgynous looks, and also a few stand-out minimalist menswear pieces.
Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond had a powerful statement to make: The first model who opened his New York presentation wore blood-splattered shoes, a reference to police brutality and the Black Lives Matter movement. Other times, the models seemed to be wrapped in an arsenal of bullet-proof vests -- yet every silhouette was skillfully constructed, and evidenced a knack for interesting details.
There was a Games of Thrones vibe in Skingraft's latest spring collection, with an army of John Snow lookalikes wearing tight, see-through knits, and medieval takes on relaxed sportswear, with an urban-goth twist. We dig it.
Speaking of loungewear-as-daywear, we can totally picture Tom Ford (or a similarly distinguished gentleman) rocking this drapy robe while sipping on a Shirley Temple, watching Empire in his Manhattan penthouse. Or just wear it as an androgynous overcoat, as seen on Thakoon's runway.
Calvin Klein Collection
Will menswear see a similar burst in pyjama-tuxedos on the red carpet next year? When it looks so good, we can only hope so.
The Public School guys really struck a chord with their debut collection as creative directors of DKNY, bringing their tailored-streetwear vision to the New York brand.
Kanye's mic-drop sophomore collection at NYFW was about as compelling as his first attempt last season -- not very much, that is. Still, we found this androgynous look, with a crop top and high-waisted leggings, somewhat sexy.
This season, the wild creative Thom Browne gave us his version of Charlie Chaplin-goes-to-Japan, showing his trademark square-cut jacket worn with pleated kilts. Those boater hats were masterpieces or sorts, too.
Like Public School, Tim Coppens has utilized his industry accolades from the Vogue/CFDA clan to branch out further into womenswear. His designs maintain his signature take on tailored sportswear, and play with oversize effects and textures.
Noted fashion critic Tim Blanks wouldn't shy away from this whimsical print at Tommy Hilfiger. Worn head-to-toe in a slouchy, silky pyjamas style, it's one we could play with as a total look, or worn as separates with more neutral tones.
The Japanese label on everyone's lips also had something to say about prints, and this trench coat speaks for itself.
The edgy London-based label Ada+Nik focused on intricate leather work, with silhouettes echoeing a 1980s Grace Jones, and proved once and for all that lace fabrics and skirts can look super hot on guys.
The German designer presented a collection entirely inspired by model Shaun Ross and his "In My Skin I Win" initiative, which advocates more diversity in representation of beauty in fashion. Fittingly, Athanasiou cast a bunch of models with singular features, and showcased clothes printed with Ross's face, or emblazoned with Americana-style tattoos representing hunk black men.