LGBTQ+ travelers, it's time for the 'quiet thrill' of a Greenland cruise

Greenland is closer than you think

There is a certain clarity to the air in Nuuk, Greenland's capital, that feels almost medicinal. As I stepped off the plane, my lungs expanded in a way they rarely do in cities. Perhaps it's helped by Greenland's small population of just 56,700 people, nearly 20,000 of whom live in Nuuk.

Despite being part of the Kingdom of Denmark, Greenland operates with a high degree of cultural autonomy. Kalaallisut is the official language, with Danish and English widely spoken, particularly in Nuuk. The local currency is the Danish krone, and the majority of residents are Inuit. Fishing, especially halibut and shrimp, remains central to both the economy and daily life.

In recent months, Greenland has been in the headlines (and in search bars), prompting a new wave of curiosity. Add United Airlines’ direct Newark–Nuuk route — roughly four hours — and suddenly this once remote destination feels remarkably accessible.

As for LGBTQ+ life? Greenland doesn’t often feature in queer travel conversations, yet it’s very safe, and queer travelers are very much welcomed. It’s not in-your-face, but I did spot rainbow flags and stickers in a few businesses I visited. That subtle visibility reflects something more formal, too: same-sex marriage and adoption have been legally recognized since 2016, and a 2024 law prohibits discrimination based on sexual orientation or gender identity. It's less about spectacle and more about normalcy, which in a place this secluded and spread out feels all the more meaningful.

Why Greenland is best explored by an expedition ship

Britney Spears once sang that there are two types of people in the world. When it comes to cruising, the divide can feel just as stark. Anti-cruisers, hear me out: Greenland’s towns aren’t connected by road, so seeing multiple regions independently would require a patchwork of small aircraft and boat transfers.

An expedition ship functions almost like a floating basecamp, repositioning you overnight to an entirely new part of the island. For this journey, I sailed aboard HX Expeditions’ MS Fridtjof Nansen, a hybrid-powered vessel built for polar waters. Launched in 2020 and carrying approximately 490 guests, it’s large enough to feel stable and uncrowded yet small enough to access remote fjords and smaller ports.

HX Expeditions has operated in Greenland for more than two decades and traces its expedition heritage back over 130 years, remaining today the largest expedition cruise operator in the region by passenger numbers. What stood out on this sailing, however, wasn’t size but intent: itineraries are designed with Greenlanders, and local storytellers, cultural ambassadors, and chefs who join sailings to provide context beyond the postcard.

Thoughtful accommodations

On HX’s newer ships, all cabins are outside-facing, and roughly half include private balconies. Some of the Expedition Suites go even further, offering private outdoor hot tubs. If you can swing the upgrade to a cabin with a balcony, waking up and stepping directly into that Arctic air each morning is absolutely worth it — it became my second-favorite place on the ship (my first, I’ll get to shortly).

My cabin had a calm, cocooning quality, intelligently designed with ample closet space, a compact fridge stocked with beverages, and tea- and coffee-making facilities. Large windows framed the ever-changing landscape like moving works of art. The interiors lean Scandinavian, with natural woods, soft textures, and a calming palette. Cabins use 220V European-style outlets (continental two-pin), so don't forget your adapter!

Complimentary WiFi is included throughout the ship, though service can be intermittent in remote areas, as expected this far north. There’s nightly turndown service, laundry available for those packing light, and a complimentary HX Expedition jacket — lightweight, waterproof, and made from recycled materials — which you keep after the sailing. It quickly became my unofficial uniform during port days. Just note: it’s waterproof rather than heavily insulated, so proper base and mid-layers are still essential in Greenland’s shifting temperatures.

There’s also a small onboard shop carrying cold-weather essentials, branded layers, toiletries, and the sort of practical items travelers inevitably forget.

Dining in the Arctic

There are three primary dining venues onboard. Aune serves buffet-style meals with a Scandinavian lean — smoked fish, cheeses, fruits, salads, and hearty soups. Greenland’s traditional reliance on seafood and meat is reflected in most menus, but plant-based options are available at every meal.

Lindstrøm, named after polar explorer and celebrated chef, Adolf Lindstrøm, is the more upscale option. It’s included for suite guests and available by reservation (with a surcharge) for others. Don’t expect guests dressed in suits or ballgowns — the overall vibe onboard is relaxed — but dressing smart is encouraged here. Fredheim rounds out the offerings with a more casual setup for lighter fare and themed evenings. Cocktails, beer, wine, and non-alcoholic drinks are included in the price, which makes lingering over dinner feel unrushed and indulgent.

You’ll also notice thoughtful details before you even sit down: dedicated handwashing stations outside the restaurants, hand sanitizers positioned throughout the ship, and touchless hydration stations for refilling water bottles. For the germaphobes among us (myself included), those small touches don’t go unnoticed.

Life between landings

The sauna quickly became my favorite place on the ship. Most of my evenings ended there, sitting in the heat as the Arctic light refused to fade and glaciers drifted past outside. There’s also a well-equipped gym, running track, an infinity pool, two hot tubs, a hair and nail salon, and a spa offering massages and facials. I booked the Glacier Glow Facial mid-voyage, and the quiet, almost improbable calm of it all felt like exactly the recharge I needed.

The Science Center is where much of the ship’s daily programming takes place. Talks from the expedition team cover everything from marine biology to Greenlandic history, and samples collected during the voyage are examined onboard using microscopes and interactive screens.

Beyond the scheduled talks, the expedition team hosts sessions throughout the voyage, including wildlife observation workshops that teach guests how to use binoculars properly, photography composition classes to help capture the landscape more thoughtfully, and cooking demonstrations.

Landings, kayaks, and the origins of adventure

Kayaking in Greenland was a bucket-list moment for me. The word “kayak” itself comes from the Inuit qajaq, and paddling in its birthplace felt slightly surreal. Kayak outings can be booked once onboard, and if it’s on your must-do list, sign up early as spots fill quickly. Other experiences offered at an additional cost include boat trips weaving between Ilulissat’s towering icebergs, scenic flights over the Icefjord, and cultural visits inside local homes in remote communities.

Many daily excursions, however, are included in the voyage, such as guided hikes, village visits, and glacier viewpoints. Exploring Uummannaq Fjord and the settlements around Disko Island showed just how varied West Greenland can feel from one day to the next.

Early in the voyage, guests attend a mandatory briefing aligned with AECO (Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators) guidelines, with reminders before select landings. Responsible Arctic tourism protocols are strict, and rightly so: keep distance, leave no trace, no drones, and no rearranging stones for your Instagram shots. The landscape doesn’t need staging; trust me, the Arctic is photogenic enough as it is.

Responsibility, on and off the water

Cruising and sustainability often feel like opposing forces. HX is acutely aware of that tension. The ship avoids traditional anchoring when possible, using dynamic positioning systems to reduce seabed disturbance. Waste reduction is prioritized, and guests are encouraged to participate in shoreline cleanups where appropriate.

HX also supports the HX Foundation, which funds community and environmental initiatives across the island. That includes support for Sipineq+, Greenland’s volunteer-led 2SLGBTQIA+ organization working to strengthen queer rights and develop inclusive terminology in the Greenlandic language — words that historically didn’t exist. Through the foundation, HX also sponsors Nuuk Pride, reflecting a long-term presence on the island rather than a one-off gesture.

What it costs and who it’s for

Fares for the 12-day Icy Giants of Disko Bay itinerary begin at approximately $11,800 per person, based on double occupancy, and are genuinely all-inclusive. Round-trip flights (in this case, Newark–Nuuk direct), accommodation, all meals, house wine, beer, cocktails, and soft drinks are included, along with daily landings and guided excursions led by the expedition team. Gratuities, WiFi, access to the ship’s wellness facilities and Science Center, and the HX expedition jacket to take home are also part of the package.

This cruise is for curious travelers who would rather trade small talk for real conversation and spectacle for substance. It suits those who are less interested in waterslides and poolside DJs and more intrigued by phytoplankton samples, Inuit storytelling, and the quiet thrill of spotting wildlife or a glacier on the horizon. It’s for people who care about sustainability but still appreciate a well-made bed, a delicious meal, and a sauna with a constantly changing view. And perhaps it’s especially compelling for queer travelers who prefer going beyond the usual rainbow circuit, who like their adventures a little further off the beaten path and a lot less predictable. Greenland is not loud about it, but it is welcoming. It feels less like a scene and more like a place where you can simply exist, which, in its understated way, feels like a different kind of luxury.

The packing list

Motion-sickness patches are smart if you’re even mildly prone. Waterproof layers are non-negotiable. Think Gore-Tex over wool; warm gloves, a warm hat, and trousers that can handle mist or sea spray. The midnight sun is strong, so SPF and after-sun lotion are essential. And while mosquitoes weren’t everywhere, in certain rural areas they absolutely made their presence known, so bring an effective spray or wipes. You’ll thank me later. Binoculars are also useful to have. Beyond the basics, here are a few extras that made my life easier:

• Vessi Alta High Top Winter Boot – $200: While the ship provides rubber boots and trekking poles to borrow for excursions, I was glad to have my own pair for wandering around the various towns. Fleece-lined inside and 100% waterproof thanks to Dyma-tex™, they handled slushy docks and damp terrain with ease. After breaking them in pre-trip, they felt secure and steady. Paired with thick socks, my toes stayed warm without the need for toe warmers.
• Henry Rose London 1983 EDP - $120: I first came across Henry Rose when a friend was wearing Jake’s House, a fresh marine-and-neroli musk, and I immediately wanted to know what it was. That led me to London 1983, now firmly my scent of the season, with fig and black pepper giving way to jasmine, water lily, musk, blonde woods, and vetiver bourbon. Ripe is another favorite, brighter and fruitier with lychee rose, watermelon sorbet, florals, and soft woods. Founded by Michelle Pfeiffer in 2019, Henry Rose makes genderless fragrances with 100% ingredient transparency. For travel, there are 8mL sprays and 10mL minis, plus a Bestsellers Discovery Set of four 1.5mL scents, including London 1983 and Ripe.
• SURI 2.0 Toothbrush – $135 (with UV Case): Greenland is remote, and suitcase space matters. The SURI 2.0 is one of the most travel-friendly electric brushes I’ve used. Its curved charging case includes battery-powered UV-C cleaning with no plug required, and it charges wirelessly. A built-in pressure sensor and higher-amplitude motor elevate the clean, while the recyclable, plant-based brush heads feel aligned with an expedition rooted in sustainability.
• Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels – $7.50: Sleep schedules shift when the sun barely sets in the Greenlandic summers. These cooling patches are a 10-minute reset, formulated with Icelandic glacial water, Arctic cranberry seed oil, peptides, and CoQ10 to visibly refresh tired eyes. Cruelty-free and genuinely useful after early landings or 1am whale sightings under the midnight sun. For deeper repair, the brand's $18 Dissolving Microneedle Eye Patches work overnight to smooth fine lines before your next glacier photo op.
• Boka Restore Mouthwash Tablets – $22: Streamlining liquids makes airport security far less dramatic. Boka’s Restore Mouthwash Tablets skip the liquid altogether — chew, swish, done. Hydroxyapatite-based and formulated with probiotics, they support oral wellness without leaking in your toiletry bag. Pair with Boka's Citrus Mint Toothpaste Tablets ($20) for a fully liquid-free oral care routine.

Beauty beyond the headlines

Some travelers may wonder whether now is the right time to plan a trip to Greenland, particularly given the geopolitical attention the island has recently received. From a practical standpoint, travel continues as normal. HX's Greenland itineraries are operating as scheduled, and the company has expanded its ‘Greenland Promise’ across all Greenland sailings in 2026 and 2027. In the unlikely event that HX cancels a Greenland voyage, or if a guest's government advises against travel, travelers can transfer to another HX sailing, receive an additional 20% Future Cruise Credit, or opt for a full refund.

Beyond logistics, what matters more is the feeling on the ground and at sea. When I sailed, Greenland did not feel unstable or overwhelmed. It felt deliberate. Communities were engaged, tourism was present but not excessive, and the overall tone was measured rather than reactive. HX's long-standing partnerships across the island are also evident in how seamlessly the voyage unfolds. For now, Greenland still feels like the kind of place you can experience before everyone else catches on.

Those curious about upcoming Greenland departures can browse HX’s future sailings here.

This reporter was invited to cover this cruise by HX Expeditions.