It’s unfortunate how few people realize the impact good costuming has on any given piece of media.
To be fair, it’s an easy aspect to overlook; viewers are usually more entertained by what’s happening between actors in a scene than the clothes they’re wearing. But it’s these garments that inform so much about the characters we’re watching. Each piece provides insight into who these individuals are, what role they play in the story, and how they navigate the world unfolding before our eyes.
Being able to design costumes that push a narrative forward is a true talent — and, luckily for us all, it’s a talent that renowned costume designer Rudy Mance brought to one of this year’s buzziest shows, Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. & Carolyn Bessette, led by Paul Anthony Kelly and Sarah Pidgeon in the titular roles.
Costume designer Rudy ManceJo Baker
“In real life, before anybody speaks, the first thing you know about them — and the first thing that informs who they are as a person — is what they’re wearing,” says Mance, who recently received an Emmy nomination for his work on Love Story. “So I always use costume design to inform who [characters] are in their life and how they play a role in our story.”
Mance’s career began with a deep love of fashion. Growing up in Indiana, he would drive half an hour just to pick up the latest issue of Vogue. That passion led to a career in fashion editing before he transitioned into costume design under the mentorship of industry legend Ellen Mirojnick.
Carolyn Bessette (Sarah Pidgeon) had a subtle yet chic style that became a public obsession.courtesy FX
Whether it’s styling Laurie Metcalf and Nathan Lane in Death of a Salesman on Broadway or designing many of Pose’s fabulous outfits, Mance became known for the artistry he brought to every production. This year, Lane’s “sad suit” became emblematic of the Tony-winning Arthur Miller revival; Mance reveals that he initially planned to construct the outfit before he found the winning look at JCPenney. “In the fitting, I put it on him, and [director] Joe Mantello was in the room, and he was just like, ‘I mean, this is it!’” he recalls.
It was on Pose, the acclaimed FX series centered on trans women of color and NYC’s ballroom scene, that Mance met Ryan Murphy, and the two bonded over their love of queer history and fashion. It’s what made Mance the producer’s first choice for his newest project: a look into the tragic love story that redefined romance for thousands of Americans.
Carolyn Bessette’s tan military coat from episode 7 was a sartorial highlight.courtesy FX
It’s undeniable how much John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette’s relationship impacted modern culture. And that’s not just because of Kennedy’s presidential lineage; not only was Bessette a staunch feminist, but the pair were open supporters of the LGBTQ+ community during the AIDS crisis. They were remarkable people already, but what truly made the couple stand out was their fashion, a toned-down but impeccable aesthetic that people still try to replicate today.
Swatches from Carolyn Bessette’s real wedding dress were used to recreate the costume.courtesy FX
“They were so cool, and they always looked good!” raves Mance, detailing how the couple’s simplistic style — Kennedy lived in baseball caps, and Bessette always wore subtle yet fashionable pieces — embodied a casual perfection that became a public obsession. Mance worked hard to recreate their legendary looks for the series, plumbing the archives of fashion houses and even tracking down the original swatches for Bessette’s real wedding dress. He’s overjoyed at how these recreations turned out (particularly Bessette’s tan military coat from episode 7, his favorite from the series) but explained that he didn’t want to just recreate what people already knew.
Using the power of costume design, Mance wanted to offer the public a side of Kennedy and Bessette they’d never seen before.
“What would [Bessette] wear at 3:00 a.m. when no one was there?” Mance says he asked himself when he started on Love Story. “Who were the two of them, and what did they wear when there weren’t cameras on them?”
Paul Anthony Kelly is the spitting image of JFK Jr. in recreated formalwear and wedding tux.courtesy FX
Mance spoke with the couple’s real-life friends to learn what they wore during their few moments of privacy. It helped him design their pajamas, their lazy day outfits, and the costumes that helped Love Story capture their true essence — not as celebrities, but as two people just trying to make it work. These garments defined some of the program’s best moments, and helped the project serve as a loving testament to the actual people behind this historic love story.
Mance and his team are honored to have been nominated for Outstanding Period Costumes at the 2026 Emmys. But while he definitely wants to win, the designer emphasized that all he really hopes for is that Love Story helps viewers understand this pair better than they did beforehand.
Laurie Metcalf and Nathan Lane from Death of a Salesman. Costume designer Rudy Mance found Lane’s “sad suit” at JCPenney.Emilio Madrid
“I just always tried to pay my respects to the two of them,” he says on what his ultimate goal was with the series. “I hope that [the audience] takes away that these were two people in love, who were just doing the best that they could.”
This approach helped Love Story’s fashion become as iconic as the people who inspired it, showing that, when given the respect it deserves, costume design can help create a show that captivates an audience — and that might just win an Emmy.
This article is part of OUT’s Sept-Oct 2026 print issue, on newsstands September 1. Support queer media and subscribe — or download the issue now through Apple News+, Zinio, Nook, or PressReader starting August 20.
Out Sept/Oct 2026 cover with cover stars Trixie Mattel and Katya Zamolodchikova Photography by Albert Sanchez and Pedro Zalba
