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Chinese New Wave

Chinese New Wave

Fung Tu

Kung pao gets a much-needed kick. 

Fung Tu's wide rice noodles with chorizo, rhubarb, celery & Soybean Sprouts | Photo: Paul Wagtouicz

Go to most Chinese restaurants in the U.S., and you'll find slight variations on the old standbys. (How many different ways can someone interpret chicken and broccoli? Turns out, not a lot.) But with a new batch of chefs giving a modern spin to dishes we're used to consuming on our couches, it's looking like General Tso's reign may soon be over.

Jonathan Wu, who runs the hot spot Fung Tu ( in New York City's Lower East Side, serves a menu he describes as "seasonal American Chinese." He makes tired staples fresh by channeling his upbringing. "It's an expression of my identity, my heritage, and Chinese culture, but I'm most definitely an American," he says of his egg roll stuffed with succulent pork belly, one of Fung Tu's signatures.

More than anything, it's Wu's time spent in the kitchens of restaurant royalty like Blue Hill and Per Se that allows his cross-cultural vision to succeed on the plate. The young talent coming out of lauded venues like these is the driving force behind Chinese cuisine's renaissance. "There's a generation of chefs who've worked around fine dining, gained experience with techniques, and now have the opportunity to open their own places," says Wu.

That means the fried chicken at San Antonio's Hot Joy ( is spiked with Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil; the dumplings at Mimi Cheng's ( in Manhattan come filled with local baby bok choy; and the lines are out the door for the Kung Pao Pastrami at Mission Chinese Food ( in San Fran and New York.

Sure, specials like Fung Tu's ricotta gnocchi (yes, gnocchi) are tasty. However, Wu thinks the major reason the New Chinese trend will soon make its way into takeout containers around the country is simple: It preserves old traditions while inventing new ones. "I didn't create it just to create it," Wu says of the menu at Fung Tu. "It's at once original and soulful. There are stories and connections throughout the cuisine."

Modern Chinese for the home wok

? (Serves 4 as a main course)
2 lbs. wide rice noodles, cut into 1-inch strips
2 links Mexican chorizo, taken out of the casing and broken up into pinky-nail-sized pieces
4 rhubarb ribs, cut on a bias 2 mm thick
4 celery ribs, cut on a bias 2 mm thick
1/2 lb. soybean sprouts, washed
3 tbsp. chili oil pulp
2 tbsp. soy sauce
3 tbsp. black vinegar

In a wok, heat 1 teaspoon of canola oil on high until it smokes. Add the chorizo. Add noodles after the chorizo is browned. Toss thoroughly. Add the rhubarb, celery, sprouts, and chili oil pulp. Season with soy sauce and black vinegar. Serve in a bowl, garnished with sliced scallion greens and cilantro.

Advocate Channel - The Pride StoreOut / Advocate Magazine - Fellow Travelers & Jamie Lee Curtis

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Jeffrey Urquhart