Clothing line Nihl's released its debut Spring/Summer 2019 collection during New Fashion Week Men's. Designed by Parson MFA graduate Neil Grotzinger, the 14-piece "Subservient Authorities" collection challenges the relationship between the masculine and effeminate within the authoritative and subservient characters.
To bring these contradictions to life, Grotzinger used traditionally masculine silhouettes like trench coats and tailored pants with traditionally feminine design techniques like embroidery, beading, and slits, and crop tops. The use of traditionally masculine male models with muscles visible through the clothing also helped to relay Grotzinger's feminine-masculine approach to menswear.
"I am still very interested in the idea of a character of authority...Where can I push it to seem subservient? Where can I push it to see erotic or effeminate?" Grotzinger said to Vogue.
Despite Grotzinger's obvious design talent and his creativity for redefining the menswear landscape, the purpose of Nihl is to celebrate and bring awareness to the queer community.
"I thought it would be really interesting to find characters, who just embody a sort of queer perspective. I feel that the more you care, the more the clothing will reflect that," said Grotzinger. "The more you appreciate a queer alternative message, the more you will start to see that message through the clothing."