Grant Woolhead's Fashion Week Diary: Day 3 & 4

1.16.2014

By Grant Woolhead

Out fashion director Grant Woolhead shares his highlights from Milan

Pictured, clockwise from left: Jourdan Copeland (Red), Gucci Fall/Winter 2014, Silk bomber jacket by Brioni, Museo Bugatti Valsecci.

The model: Jourdan Copeland at Red Models
One of my favorite models of this season is Jourdan Copeland. He has rocked some of the best shows from Burberry in London, Ermenegildo Zegna and Ports in Milan, and I can't wait to see what he does in Paris. He was on my flight from Milan to Paris and I think he has a great look. Would love to shoot him next season.

Gucci's Carnaby Street looks
Frida Gianini presented a really strong collection for Gucci. Of course, being British I'm slightly biased, but for me '60s Carnaby Street really was an era that remains an endless hub of fabulous fashion reference -- from the Beatles and the Stones, to Peggy Moffitt and David Bailey, Vidal Sassoon and Rudi Gernreich. My favorite look from the collection was a shearling collared caramel leather jacket with dusty pink drainpipes and a green turtleneck.

The pianist at Canali
Ludovico Einaudi, the grandson of Italy's former president Luigi Einaudi, did a wonderful performance at the Canali show. A very Italian collection with a subtle and elegant palette of soft pinks, dusty browns and washed natural greens, the collection was classic and wearable with beautiful shawl collared overcoats and some lovely printed suiting. We were given a CD of his music, which we played in the car between shows, very beautiful and relaxing, listen to it here.

Fendi's "Pac Man coats"
Silvia Fendi presented a collection of fur, fur and more fur. Even the catwalk was a giant train of goatskin. Funnily enough though, my favorite looks from the collection were simple shearling jackets that had what looked like Pac Man-type monster faces. They were both irreverant and fun, which is always welcome in men's fashion

The Canali dinner
Elisabetta Canali held an incredibly elegant dinner this evening at the Museo Bugatti Valsecci, on via Gesu. It's a very small street in Milan which is also home to the Versace Mansion and The Four Seasons Hotel. This location was owned by the baron Bugatti Valsecci and has some of the most incredible Renaissance art in Italy, from furniture, tapestry and ceramic plates to vintage weapons. It was a pretty amazing location for an intimate dinner. Everyone had a really fun night.

The hand painted silk kimonos at Brioni
Brendan Mullane produced perhaps one of the most luxurious collections for Brioni this season. His inspiration came from a journal from the Brioni archive (pictured, right) kept by Gaetano Savini, Brioni's co-founder, of a trip he took to Japan in the 1960s. The journal itself is a fascinating piece of the companies history, and the collection took great pains to produce something as close to couture for men that I've ever seen. The color palette was inspired by Caravaggio, with poison greens and cherry blosson pinks. The collection was really a fusion of Italian and Japanese style. One of the most incredible pieces was a hand-painted kimono silk bomber jacket (picture, above). Millane even showed us a picture of the artist painting the silk, and for that reason so few kimonos will be produced. Expect the price tag to match!

READER COMMENTS ()

AddThis