In a season that seems to herald a return to '70s and '80s silhouettes, the menswear presented on Sunday by Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection was a fast-forward into the future wardrobe of the urban man.
Zucchelli's approach to "formalized sportswear" blended the comfort and nonchalance of athletic gear with the codes and patterns of classic evening wear. Take a basic staple such as the gym-friendly crew-neck sweater. Left in his hands, it was reinvented into a laser-cut construction, thermo-embossed with oversized herringbone and houndstooth detail.
The formula was repeated endlessly to offer a masterclass in layering, sometimes combining four different motifs on a single look. The 3D effects added contrast to a monochromatic palette of deep charcoal, midnight blue and oxblood, reminiscent of traditional tuxedos. A tight control of the proportions made the collection boldly masculine: the tailored wool pants fitted the models with a precision that sometimes left little to the imagination.
Watching from the front row, Justin Theroux and NY Giant Victor Cruz seemed inspired
as they went on to celebrate with Zucchelli at the Franco Parenti Theatre, in Milan,
where English songbird Ellie Goulding gave a preview of her latest album Halcyon. Her performance was followed by a set from the New York electro band Hercules and Love Affair.