A New York Fashion Week Minute: Paul Marlow from Loden Dager
By Geoffrey Brown
OUT: What should every guy have in his closet?
Paul Marlow (left, in pink blazer): A classic suit, either navy or gray, a navy blazer, a tuxedo (preferably navy), a couple of white button-down shirts—one pressed and one washed. Also, at least two tie, a denim jacket, at least one cashmere sweater, cedar chips, and some skeletons.
Who and what inspired this seasons collection?
This collection is about colors and textures that stay with a person. I wanted to make the kind of clothes that you'll remember living in long after they wear out. It's a clear move away from the heritage trend, which feels dated to me now.
What goes into coming up with a collection?
Art. Music. Books. Lots of coffee.
What shows are you looking forward to see?
Robert Geller, Joseph Altuzarra, Band of Outsiders, and Patrik Ervell. Fortunately all of them are on Saturday, after our show.
Has there ever been a time when you felt like this was not what you wanted to do?
Never. I am living the dream.
What do you think Loden Dager brings to the table that is different from any other label?
We have a consistent fit. Not self-conscious, but not slouchy either. And we do it in color—black is too easy. There's also the occasional hidden Robyn lyric stitched in the linings.
How did Loden Dager start?
Literally over coffee. I was working at Marc Jacobs and itching to start my own thing. I met Oliver Helden at MJ and we would get coffee together every day. One day we just decided to go for it. Sometimes not really knowing what you are getting yourself into can be the best thing. We still meet for coffee at least once a week.
What do you feel is your greatest accomplishment?.
Waking up everyday and knowing that I'm doing what I love.
What are you most excited about for this collection?
I'm excited to see it in the stores and on friends. I'm really happy with the color palette. It's bold and uplifting. There are a lot of little details that make the clothes fun to wear and put on. Like grosgrain in the plackets and collars and adjustable details in some of the pants. I'm also loving our dickies, which make it super easy to transform a look while keeping you warm.
What is the most important part about the design process?
Coming to it with a fresh pair of eyes and an open mind. You have to avoid Groundhog Day.
What is the overall theme for this years collection?
The suit is a strong theme in the collection. Not just the classic suit but also modern options like ultrasuede, high-tech fabrics and super-fine cords. It's about going from work to social functions easily, and being appropriately dressed for everything in between.
What do your clothes say about the modern man?
That modern masculinity is not about conforming. It's about being comfortable with who you are and living boldly.
Who is the Loden Dager man?
A man one who knows who he is and how he wants to be remembered.