Milan Fashion This Week: The Nureyev Influence
By Out.com Editors
The men�s shows for fall 2005 are in full swing this week in Milan, and while there has been much talk of what came down the runways from the big labels�lots of color from Christopher Bailey at Burberry, hip-hugger trousers and angora sweaters at Prada�some of the major buzz has been for the show Ennio Capasa did for Costume National.
Capasa�s main influence for the lean tunics, Himalayan goatskin jackets, suede suits, skintight leathers, waxed denim, beat-up biker jackets, grommet belts, and Cossack caps was the gay dancer Rudolf Nureyev, who was a major figure in the ballet world for years before he died of AIDS-related causes in 1993.
Capasa, whose creations were sent down the runway to the accompaniment of gay crooner Rufus Wainwright�s music, told Guy Trebay of The New York Times that he, Capasa, once �worked on a photographic exhibition devoted to [Nureyev]. Seeing the pictures inspired me to work with this idea of masculine elegance that�s extreme, not so much the hippie side of the �70s, but a sexy, eccentric form of chic.�