Milan Fashion This Week: The Nureyev Influence


By Editors

The men's shows for fall 2005 are in full swing this week in Milan, and while there has been much talk of what came down the runways from the big labels'lots of color from Christopher Bailey at Burberry, hip-hugger trousers and angora sweaters at Prada'some of the major buzz has been for the show Ennio Capasa did for Costume National.

Capasa's main influence for the lean tunics, Himalayan goatskin jackets, suede suits, skintight leathers, waxed denim, beat-up biker jackets, grommet belts, and Cossack caps was the gay dancer Rudolf Nureyev, who was a major figure in the ballet world for years before he died of AIDS-related causes in 1993.

Capasa, whose creations were sent down the runway to the accompaniment of gay crooner Rufus Wainwright's music, told Guy Trebay of The New York Times that he, Capasa, once 'worked on a photographic exhibition devoted to [Nureyev]. Seeing the pictures inspired me to work with this idea of masculine elegance that's extreme, not so much the hippie side of the '70s, but a sexy, eccentric form of chic.'