By Raphael Kadushin

Made Over, Still Magical

Marrakech is a city ruled by two contrary kings. There is, of course, the king of Morocco, your standard royal strongman. And then there is the willowy French king of fashion, Yves Saint Laurent, who may ultimately be the stronger man, at least in terms of his lasting local impact. That’s because the late designer, a part-time resident who left his Majorelle Garden to the city when he died in 2008, really helped define its hybrid style: part soulful Berber grandeur, part Gallic chic. Thankfully, that legacy, seen in his villa and collections, keeps evolving. In fact, one-upping even Yves, the latest wave of largely Euro expats have bought the Medina’s finest riads, turned those courtyard townhouses into boutique bolt-holes, and helped inspire a heady rediscovery of Moroccan craftsmanship paired with slightly unhinged boho savvy. Here, a guide to modern Marrakech’s quirky best.