#NYFW Diary: Robert Geller, Hood by Air, Public School, Tim Coppens
By Julien Sauvalle
Clockwise from left: Hood By Air, Public School, Tim Coppens, Robert Geller (Pictures: Cory Dante Hall)
Robert Geller is possibly one of the most highbrow, most interesting menswear designers to present at NYFW. His latest collection referenced the Soviet Union and the Moscow youth of the 1980s, with a hint of the New Wave and punk-rock influences that permeated the ex-USSR at the time. Chilly summer in Russia, judging from the heavy layering of the clothes and the dark palette of grays, black, and green. However, some pieces felt like a breath of fresh air: a neoprene waistcoat worn over loose cropped pants; a sleeveless motorbike leather jacket with striped leggings; a stunning belted bomber jacket in imperial orange; or the zip-up jumpsuit, a definite trend this season.
Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have received a lot of buzz this year (catch up with them here), and rightly so: Their new collection lived up to every expectations. Revolving around the theme of movement, their Spring 2014 offering blended sportswear and tailoring, tapping right into the street-smart aesthetic that has made Public School one of the most promising new menswear labels. The clothes were rich in details (mesh on an olive green reversible bomber) and textures (an asymmetrical vest worn over a raglan sleeve sweatshirt) that added depth to a minimalist and decisively modern line. The Public School boys also threw the best after-party we attended: After George Lewis, Jr. of Twin Shadow span the decks at the newly-opened Nana's Bar, in MePa, there was not a dry armpit left in the room.
Hood By Air
Another buzz-worthy collection from Shayne Oliver, the New York street kid whose line has become gospel to rappers like A$AP Rocky and the "ghetto-gothic" generation. Kanye West sitting front row was so absorbed by the show that he refused to take any pictures. Spring 2014 was a step up for Oliver, who until then made his bread from oversized tees and branded accessories: The runway was filled with eerie, genderless creatures walking at zombie pace, sporting tailored streetwear (button-down shirts, zipped up tunics, and skorts for men) or Alien-like uniforms featuring tubular quilting. Freaky, yet spectacular.
The Belgian designer was inspired by Formula 1 and racing drivers' gear for his latest collection. There was a consistent pulse-racing 1970s Monte Carlo vibe throughout the show, which mixed leather, nylon-mesh, and metallic fabrics to create some of the most desirable pieces we've seen so far; namely a handful of must-have bomber jackets, lightweight parkas, and sweaters. Coppens collaborated with Common Projects and Masterpiece on a line of backpacks and star-studded shoes which are sure to be a hit when the collection hits the stores. We'll be waiting in line!