Milan & Paris Fashion Shows: Spring/Summer 2008
By Nick Burns
Sagging Crotch: Perhaps it’s a backlash to the popularity of skinny jeans and slim-cut trousers of seasons past, but designers like Burberry (pictured) and Dior Homme (Kris Van Assche’s debut collection since Hedi Slimane’s departure) are running in the opposite direction with their pants around their knees. Okay, not exactly. Trousers are featuring a lowered crotch—meaning the crotch of your pants hangs a little closer to your knees. This provides the illusion that you’re sagging your pants without actually flashing your Calvins all over town like you're Britney Spears. This trend is actually part of a larger change in silhouettes that are elongating the torso—which is great if you’re tall. If you’re not, stay away from any of the drop-crotch pants.
Tony Tone Toni: Oh the ‘80s just keep coming back for more! This time, it’s tone-on-tone. In other words, your jacket, shirt, tie and pants are all the same color. It’s an interesting look but the Miami Vice shades of pastels look fresh again on the runways of Bottega Veneta and Fendi.
Shirt Dresses: The lengthening of the torso is also appearing in the form of long, untucked shirts. Prada featured a number of t-shirts and button downs that hang past the belt and cover much of the bum. I might even say that it’s taking a cue from womenswear's fascination with leggings and t-shirt dresses (for lack of a better term). Before you try this look on your own and throw on your largest oxford shirt, keep in mind that Prada’s shirts are expertly tailored. They aren’t your average boxy-cut shirts that billow in the wind. And please keep away from the leggings.
Pump Up the Volume: In one of the most anticipated shows of the season, Kris Van Assche brought billowing, voluminous pleated pants to the Dior Homme presenation. Think M.C. Hammer parachute pants for eveningwear. It's clear that Van Assche wants to break from the skinny rock and roll style that Hedi Slimane made synonymous with Dior Homme over the years. Some critics are scratching their heads and wondering where exactly Van Assche is going to take Dior next but he is certainly one to watch in the coming seasons.
Metallica: For Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2007 womens ready-to-wear collection, Nicolas Ghesquiere went back to the future and turned out a crop of shining, metallic and futuristic clothes to rave reviews. It seems that the Tron fever has caught on in menswear, too! Everyone from Versace and Jean Paul Gaultier (pictured) to Calvin Klein Collection and Salvatore Ferragamo featured metallic pants, jackets, shorts and shirts. While some opted for innovative fabrics (i.e. neoprene), others gave suits a slight metallic sheen. Proceed with caution and limit yourself to one metallic piece per outfit or you’ll end up looking like something the ‘70s regurgitated.
Singing the Blues: The It-Color of Spring/Summer 2008 is sky blue! Don’t believe me? Check out Louis Vuitton (pictured), Calvin Klein and Giorgio Armani.
For more fashion show coverage, including photos and reviews from all the shows, visit Men.Style.com.