Remaking the Castro Clone
By Eddie Shaprio
Given access to the archives of the San Francisco GLBT Historical Society, Glicker and his team managed to get their hands on a fair amount of Milk�s actual clothing. Then they went shopping. Glicker, who prefers vintage pieces, combed hundreds of stores and amassed a huge collection of items, which he then authenticated using his research books before altering to fit the actors. No tiny detail of the evolution of fashion went unchecked -- there are, after all, key differences between a 1976 shirt and a 1978 shirt (such as the collar width), and Glicker was determined to be accurate.
What couldn�t be bought was recreated (and sometimes what was bought was still recreated so that spare sets were available), including T-shirts from now-defunct Castro bars, protest T�s found in the archive, and the suit Milk was killed in, which they had viewed at the Historical Society. �That was a very, very meticulous recreation,� says Glicker, who had to wear cotton gloves while handling the suit, which is kept in a temperature and light controlled environment and wrapped in acid free tissue. �We were measuring everything from the lapels to the belt loops and leg openings. The fabric, every aspect of the fit, it was all done to match as closely as possible.�
And when the thrift stores and archives didn�t have what he needed, Glicker went to Levi�s corporate headquarters in San Francisco. �The uniform of choice for Harvey Milk, his friends and many in the LBGT community at the time was the Levis 501 button fly jean,� says Robert Hanson, President of Levi Strauss & Co.�s Levi�s Brand Division. �If you saw anything but Levis in the film it would have been wrong.�