By Michael Joseph Gross

Sam Nazarian, a muscular Iranian billionaire, strode through the Spike, a gay bar in Los Angeles known for late-night cruising. Exiting through the back door into a dark alley, he settled into the back of his chauffeured SUV, which was 'tricked out with satellite everything,' remembers David Cooley, a corn-fed type from Ohio who approached the car. Then, lowering his window, Nazarian made Cooley a proposition that men have been making to one another since at least ancient Rome. Cooley's response? 'I'm not for sale.'

Nazarian, a film producer and nightlife entrepreneur whose company, SBE Entertainment Group, owns a number of restaurants, bars, and hotels, including the Sahara in Las Vegas, is straight. His interest in the Spike that night was purely financial -- he'd been thinking of buying it -- but he saw an even better business opportunity when he recognized Cooley, the owner of the Abbey, West Hollywood's best-known gay bar and restaurant -- a 16,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor hodgepodge of ecclesial ephemera (a salvaged church pulpit is the DJ booth) without equal in a notoriously fickle market. Nazarian made an offer on the spot.

Cooley's initial protest was the opening gambit in a negotiation that ended last year, when he sold 75% of his stake in the Abbey to SBE for an undisclosed sum'though he admits it was a life-changing amount of money. (Most street gossip estimates the sale to be worth $20 million.) In partnership with SBE, Cooley intends to build Abbeys in cities across the country, and has spent much of the past year scouting locations including San Diego, Phoenix, Miami, New York City, Chicago, Atlanta, San Francisco, and Las Vegas; the plan is for the first new Abbey to open in Chicago within a year.

Bristling at the notion that he's creating a 'chain' of Abbeys -- 'This is not T.G.I. Friday's,' he sniffs -- Cooley points out that the business will be not franchised but wholly owned by his partnership with SBE. Cooley prefers to describe his current project as 'taking the Abbey national' or 'replicating the soul of the Abbey.' He embarks on this quest even as the gay nightlife industry seems to be in steep decline. During the past year, clubs such as New York's Roxy and Boston's Avalon have closed. Bar owners say the Internet is slowly killing their business as cruising continues its migration to the virtual realm; and a new generation, coming out to an increasingly accepting -- or at least (in marketing terms) 'gay-friendly' -- world seems neither to need nor want to socialize primarily at gay bars.

Cooley believes the Abbey, as a national brand, could reinvigorate gay nightlife -- and his strategy for doing so appears to involve toning down the avowedly gay part of that experience. But how straight-acting does gay nightlife need to be in order to survive?

Sam Nazarian, asked whether the Abbey is a gay bar, says, 'The Abbey was founded as a gay bar. I think the Abbey is very, very important to the gay community in our city. But I think the Abbey is not just a gay bar. Twenty to 30% of the clientele is nongay, and we try to offer the best service to everyone who walks in our door.'

Nazarian may be the first straight nightlife impresario to make a gay bar into a platform for building a gay-friendly one, but he surely won't be the last. 'The gay market is a huge market around the country, a market that's served in many cases by mom-and-pop-type operations,' he explains. 'Give the gay consumer a quality product -- not a mom-and-pop type of operation, but really deliver a quality product to a very high-end demographic: educated, high per capita income.'

If you find the genders of Nazarian's clich' to be jarring, get used to it. The larger meaning of the next chapter in the history of the Abbey is so succinct that it would fit on a tombstone: Pop-and-Pop, R.I.P.

One morning in the spring of 1991, David Cooley put on a suit and tie and went to work as a Wells Fargo branch manager, just as he'd done every weekday for seven years. Hours later, three men in ski masks walked in, pointed guns at Cooley, and told him to open the safe. When he fumbled, they beat him; they tried to force him into their getaway car, but he broke free, then they fired several shots at him as they drove off. Awaiting the robbers' trial (at which all three were convicted; they are still in prison), Cooley went into FBI protection for two months. Afterward, he went on leave from his job, during which time, he says, 'I thought a lot about what I really wanted to do.'

What he really wanted to do was sell coffee and desserts to gay boys in West Hollywood. The transition was extreme, but Cooley had wished for a place like the Abbey long before he could imagine creating it himself.

Cooley grew up in the Cleveland suburb of Solon, Ohio, and studied hotel administration at Ashland University and the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. One night toward the end of his senior year at UNLV, when Cooley was still in the early stages of coming out, he met one of Cher's backup dancers, who took him to Los Angeles for a weekend. On Santa Monica Boulevard, behind a dark facade -- 'like there was something shameful about the place, like it was so bad that nobody should have to look at it' -- he saw a crowd of happy, shirtless men at Mother Lode's Sunday afternoon beer blast. 'Los Angeles seemed so accepting and open, but I kept thinking about the front of the building -- why does it have to be dark? -- and how great it would be to have a business where everybody could be outdoors and feel comfortable,' he says.

It would be many years before Cooley could put his ideas into practice, but on sabbatical following the holdup, Cooley persuaded his friend Mark Burkett to help him open a coffee shop where gay men would socialize in the open. At a time when gay businesses were mostly black-fronted bars or discreet restaurants, that was an almost radical concept.

The two men rented a small space that had previously housed a dry cleaner, Cooley charged an espresso machine to his credit card, and they hung a couple of stained glass windows that looked so good they decided to give the place a religious name. They chose the Abbey, Cooley says, 'because it was short, so we saved money on signage, and it was close to the start of the alphabet, so we'd always be first in the directories.'

West Hollywood men of a certain age remember the original Abbey as the place where sober people went for coffee after Alcoholics Anonymous meetings. Around the time Starbucks came to Santa Monica Boulevard in the mid 1990s, Cooley bought out his business partner, moved the operation across the street to its current location -- just south of the busy intersection of Santa Monica and Robertson boulevards -- expanded the menu, and got a wine and beer license, followed by a liquor license. The sober people went into exile at Starbucks.

By then the Abbey had become an unofficial community center in West Hollywood. When the Northridge earthquake hit in 1994, Cooley says, the Abbey was among the few businesses in the area that did not lose power. 'People came down here in their pajamas. We served food until we ran out. We said, 'If you can pay, pay. If you can't, don't worry,'' he remembers. The Abbey is also a major contributor to local charities, including Children's Hospital Los Angeles, AIDS Project Los Angeles, and Gay and Lesbian Elder Housing. West Hollywood mayor John Duran, who calls the Abbey 'a Southern California legend,' says that Cooley is 'a great partner with the city in making our town one of the centerpieces of American gay culture.'

The Abbey is the one bar in Los Angeles that's almost universally loved. It's been cool, and it's been square: When the owners of G lounge in New York City opened Here lounge next door in 2001, the pretty and fickle defected. The Abbey fought back with flashy expansions -- a fire pit! A bright red blown-glass sunburst chandelier! -- and humpy lemmings returned. As the boys go, so go the young divas: Christina Aguilera, who loves the Abbey's calamari, made her first public appearance as a platinum-blond while dining here; Britney Spears likes the hamburgers, which have sustained her through a series of unfortunate events. And as the celebs go, so go the tourists: Both Zagat Survey and AOL City Guides named the Abbey one of West Hollywood's hottest restaurants. Wearing culottes, clutching city maps, young straight women on vacation from the Midwest drag their boyfriends in for lunch.

For Cooley, the Abbey's institutional status was sealed this summer when Hillary Clinton held a fund-raiser here following the Human Rights Campaign'Logo network debate on gay issues among the Democratic presidential candidates. 'It was the first time that a presidential candidate decided to come to a gay -- or gay-friendly -- business,' Cooley says, his voice brimming with nervous confidence. (Actually, both Clintons, and presidential candidates including Barack Obama and Al Gore, have hosted fund-raisers in gay bars.) Cooley proudly plays the message Hillary left on his voice mail to thank him for the party, and although she speaks in the quick robotic voice of an executive rolling calls, he's endearingly thrilled by the gesture. 'When I got the message I was like, 'Oh, damn, I missed her phone call!'' he says. 'Then I was like, 'Oh! It's better that I got it recorded!''